PODCAST FOR THE PEACEFUL...



It just gets better. Here's some free live music from Spearhead coming weekly, from the "Love is da Shit", A Spearhead Fansite.. This site seems to be fully suported by Michael Franti and Spearhead, in fact the concert seems to be playing on the Official Spearhead Site. Here ya go... Live from Portland Oregon lol...

Some more new music... For me anyway, I know Kalie doesn't like him..

Jason Mraz Hmmm... Acoustic, funky, reggae, jazzy, hip hop, smooth, flowing, singer, songwriter, from San Diego. I like it. Or maybe... I am gay. lol. Here's a couple of reviews from the iTunes site.

Blew me away. Five Stars. I had no Idea this album was going to be this good - Rosh

Hand in his Pockets. Five Stars. Fantastic album "The Remedy" is the obvious favorite, "Too much food", and "No stopping us" are upbeat, but "Curbside Prophet is my favorite.. Even better on the live album. - M

The Greatest Cd of All time. Five Stars Jason Mraz has a amazing voice and all of his songs make me feel good - Bnditlkebeck

Jason. One Star. I can safely say that any guy who buys this cd is "Not Straight"-Import T

Refreshing new sound. Five Stars. I guess if you were in a pissed off mood, or a homophobe, you might not like it.Even though Jason doesn't seem to by gay? Not that there's anything wrong with that. If I'm feeling pissed off, and homophobic like that, personally I go with Marshall Mathers... This is really just good, flowing, feelgood, music. Curbside Prophet is also my current favorite.. Oh, btw, this is nothing new, It came out in 2002. Personally, I have been living in my basement musically, until I got the iPod - Don

iTunes..

iPod...

I don't know how I went all this time without an iPod but, Santa Claus finally brought me one this year. Now, I don't know what I was thinking??? I mean, put all you songs onto one small little device? Why would you want to do that? Please... Excuse me for being a complete idiot for all this time. This is one of the best inventions ever. It pretty much eliminates the need for bringing your cd's anywhere. It pretty much eliminates the need for cds period. Though, I am sure that cd quality is a bit better than this iPod to fm stereo converter thingy. It does sound good enough and I have way more music. I can put together custom playlists. Shuffle whatever, it is freakin great!

I have even been buying songs off iTunes, 99 cents ea, Ten bucks for an album, so come on why steal? There seems to be a lot of exclusive cuts on iTunes also. I bought a really good acoustic version of U2's "Stuck in the Moment" Plus, I have been checking out a lot of new music, that I never would have heard otherwise. If you just want the one good song off the album, good on ya, that's the only one you need to buy ka-ching, 99 cents. There is a flaw in that line of thinking , because you probably are going to miss some really good songs if you don't buy the whole album... ka-ching $9.90

The enviormental impact seems huge. You don't need cds. No cases, No paper, No discs, No shipping, No gas, for delivery, No Planes... Think how much oil and trees could be saved by getting rid of cds. I can't beleive Apple is not using that advertising angle... We really need to start saving oil for important stuff like, surfboards, snowboards, skateboard wheels, and sunglasses.

If you really look into the future. We shouldn't be using paper for anything except art, and paper airplanes. Everything else bills, school work, whatever, should just be stored digitally. I know this seems crazy coming from me, because I think technology sucks. But hey... maybe these computors are alright. Spreading music and peace, around the globe. Saving oil and trees.. Ok, that's that! Look at this smile, another happy iPod customer...


The surf still continues to roll in... Nothing like Big Wednesday, like they promised, but mostly overhead, everyday, for quite a while. I have surfed 6 out of the last 8 days. There were plenty of waves those days too but, I am getting surfed out. Rincon has been super crowded with all the down southers, everyday. The only day I surfed there was Christmas and it was good!!! Except for this ego shattering event. I got a really nice set wave, well overhead, superfast, very hard to make actually, and my board is just made for that... So I was just flying along, superfast, ok?, carving nice stylish turns off the botton, staying low, carving off the top, it's a good long wave, 200 yds at least... Then I pass these kids and I hear one yell "do something" That fucking little punk! So, like I said, I was going superfast, and I just went for a superfast, hardcarving, roundhouse, cutback, hopeing to throw up a ton of spray, and just fell right off. Anyway... I used to try to rip the wave to pieces, and I even bought a little 6'4" fish this summer for "ripping and tearing" but...these days, as with much of my life, less is more. And as lame as it sounds, I just like to be "one with the wave". Plus, those little punks were sitting on the inside anyway.. just hoping fo a wave small enough to come in.



Here's the Veneco Pier today, for comparisons sake. Today the surf is a couple feet over head at Little rincon, and up at Rincon, there were probably a few DOH sets coming in at Indicator/Rivermouth area. So as you can see, It must have been pretty huge at Rincon last Wednesday... BTW... You can click on any of the pictures for a full size image.

BIG WEDNESDAY

I try not to pay much attention to the online surf reports and forecasts but, when you get email saying it's going to massive it's hard to overlook and I start to get panicky. Ok... Fuck Surfline, reporting on every fucking break than can get their hands on is just plain wrong. This is all you really need to know courtesy of Wetsand:

December 15th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Thu) Weekend surf outlook, and holiday NW on radar

I was heading to Mammoth thinking, oh shit it's going to be big when I get back.

December 16th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Fri) Models upgrade NW for 21st to massive

Now right off the bat, Wetsand doesn't even send emails on Friday so you know something is up. The word massive is very rarely used as well. Significant usually means it's going to be pretty big.

December 18th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Sun) NW now, much bigger westerly swell Wed.

How does it get bigger than massive??

December 20th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Tue) Big WNW tomorrow, NW 25th-26th, massive NW on radar for the 27th-28th

Another Massive swell for the 27th and 28th.. Is big, bigger than massive?? Or is massively big, the biggest. I have seen it bigger once on, Jan. 30th 1998. That was massively huge. I saw it pretty darn massive but really clean and organized last year...

Here's Wetsand..

Today (Tuesday) our latest WNW swell has backed off a bit, but there’s still plenty of heavy surf in the waters along the California coast. Tomorrow, surf will get much, much bigger—dangerously so for most areas. Another hefty WNW swell is due in NCal on Christmas, SoCal the day after. Then it looks like we’re in for a very big swell to hit us on the 27th into the 28th.

Much, much, bigger, dangerously bigger... A very big swell hitting on the 27th and 28th. Where does very big fit in here??? Normally I don't cuss this much but, I think it is going to be fucking big. When I finally hit the coast coming back from Mammoth, it was dark, but there was a heavy mist in the air...

Veneco's pier in Carp, Nobodys coming in from the oil platforms today...


Now... when I say I get panicky, I mean not in a good way. More like, great, it's going to be too big. Where am I going to surf? I know I have to get out in the water, or it does some kind of psychological damage. And, I know I don't need any more of that. I pretty much tend to max out at just a little overhead. I have been out in much, much, bigger, that's where I get my fear.. I would say things are a bit better since I quit smoking... One year, two months, three weeks, one day, 11 hours, 54 minutes and 27 seconds. 14800 cigarettes not smoked, saving $3,663.43... So now I feel like I probably won't drown. But, getting caught inside and taking one directly on the head is still a real fear for me. I have just never really become use to it. So I try to surf, mainly paddle, very carefully.. Sure, Hawaii gets bigger and is more powerful, but there are great channels, warm water, and its tend to be a bit more organized. When it gets big here, it's always a bit stormy, and almost impossible to get out.. So.. you are pretty much going to take a lot right on the head, guaranteed just getting out.

I love surfing, I have pretty much built my life around it. But, still there is something a little unnatural about being right in the impact zone, taking a deep breath, duck diving as deep as you can, then just getting absolutely violently blown to smithereens?? Now, you never know if it's going to be a successful duck dive or not. Sometimes it looks pretty grim and you just pop right out the back. Sometimes you pop right out the back, then you get this slow tug backwards and then... sucked right back into the caldron. Then, there are the ones that just blow you right off your board, scare the fuck out of you, as you just rag doll.. at this point, things are completely out of your hands..

For me this is really screwed because, I wear contacts, and I can't open my eyes without losing them. You really can't tell if you are upside down, or right side up, unless you bounce off the bottom. At least when you open your eyes you can usually see light, and swim for that. If I really get blasted, my eyes just pop open in pure panic, relaxxx... That might be the end of my session, but at least I see the light.. Now if you are lucky, you get rag dolled in towards shore, and out of the impact zone. You can pretty much relax and as you get pushed away from most of the danger. Unless... there are big rocks, or a pier, or some other impending doom. Other times it just pushes you straight down, then right back up in the same spot, and you can do it all over again, while your tired and all out of breath….

This is precisely why I moved to Carp. Most winter days, you have Rincon, Little Rincon, Pitas… If it gets a little bigger, Hammonds and Miramar are fun. Those are all pretty close by. But when the word massive turns up. You can just head up to the Gaviota coast… Now.. you can tell just how big it is down in Ventura, and Rincon, by the amount of people fleeing to the Gaivota coast. Judging by the crowds, it was pretty big and massive. El Cap, and spots I don’t even know the names of start to fire.. On Wednesday, I would put these spots in the neighborhood of “big” Mike and I selected one such spot just north of El Cap.. This spot looked like the smallest of the big. You can never really tell how big it is, until you get out there of course, especially when your checking it out from a bluff. If you time your paddle correctly you can find out right away how big it is. That’s what I did.. And just narrowly pushed under a couple of set waves and made it out. “it’s bigger than it looks” says Mike..

Now, I like that the wave height guidelines have been change to knee high, waist high ,chest high, head high, overhead, double overhead , right on up to ridiculously over head. But… now people downsize that too. It’s fairly simple. If it’s twice as big as you are tall, it’s double overhead. When you are lying down on your stomach it is bigger than that. So.. here at the spot, I’m calling it Overhead to Double Overhead with Plus Sets.. On a lot of these big Wednesdays I don’t paddle ou, just go watch the real insane surfers at the biggest spot possible, but this looks doable and it felt really good to get out there. I probably only caught about a dozen waves and, passed on those plus sets, including one that just came perfectly at me.. Missed a really good double overhead one, that I really did want badly, by not paddling hard enough. And caught mostly the overhead to few feet overhead waves. Here are a couple pics of my last wave in on a just slightly overhead one.. Now, Ok.. I catch waves this size all the time, I love this size, even a bit bigger, just not when there are big double overhead plus sets lurking about. Usually you try to pick off one of these small ones, miss it turn around and there's the plus set coming straight at you... You never get the good ones on film. Meanwhile back down at Rincon, people are getting serious. I don’t know how big they were calling it. I stopped on the freeway on my way down to the 'nard later in the day.. It was hard to even see people out there. For those guys, It was probably just over head. To me it was way too far overhead.

The swell dropped a bit yesterday, and I surfed the best El Cap I have had the pleasure of being a part of. Despite the crowd, it was great. I can now see what Shaun Tomson was talking about 25 years ago when he said El Cap was one of the best waves he had ever surf. I was like? What? I use to camp there as a kid... Since then I have been trying to get it good, and not too crowded.. I have only surfed El Cap, about five or six times, all on smaller days, but it gave me a good feel for the place. So when this perfect wave came right to me, I turned and went and got one on the best barrels of my life. One that I would really have love to seen myself. One that even Mike, who never says much anyway, said, nice barrel. One that I really wish I had a picture of. So I could say, see it is not a complete waste on time. haha.. Surfers don’t talk much usually, except to all the pretty women, now in the lineup. So when a couple other guys paddle by and said nice, pretty, sick… I knew I got my Christmas present early.

That pretty much sums it up and I think there is a lot of swell still on the way. AAOOOOOWWOOHOOO..
Mele Kalikimaka from just north of conchita...
And, a Haouli Makahiki Hou...

Mammoth Wrap Up...

The final official tally on the storm was 37" That’s over two feet at the condo, and 3-4 feet up on the hill in my unofficial report… Pretty good way to start the Christmas Vacation , considering it was pretty dry when we arrived on Friday.




It was sooo windy yesterday that they never opened the top, which is just as well, because we can’t seem to get out of here before 11:00am anyway. Today it probably will open, in fact, maybe it is already open, so naturally we are leaving. I did enjoy a few good powdery turns with Mike on Sunday, during the height of blizzard off chair 25, Lincoln Mountain. Lots of deep powder on chair 7 too. Haha. Really!! This is where we spent most of the time teaching Ashley. On day three, I think she was finally feeling it. This is in part due to Sara taking over as head instructor. Sara has had so much instruction from, Mike, Kalie, Andrea, and me over the past four years, she probably is the most qualified. It appears that Sara finally has her own snowboarding act together.. and was really having fun. WOW! Now if everyone can just get to the same level, someday... someday I hope it's soon.. lol Anyway, with the instructing job taken over by Sara… Kalie and I took off to take some runs on chair 16 until the very high winds shut it down. Kalie is pushing it more and more each time, taking a few jumps, with nice style. She was also good enough to stick with her friend Ashley most of the time. I think that they had more fun just checking out the boys in the lodge. Well I'm sure of that!


Finally a new restuarant in the Village... The Sand Dollar, a much needed Quality Sushi bar and Restaurant. While being on the expensive side,it was really good!!! Lots of expensive specialty rolls, sashimi, and couple beers, and $240 later we were out of there. Yummmmmm… My favorite, Albacore Tataki, Super Yum! The girls favorite, The Waterboy. I have never seen three girls drink so much water. They even resorted to dumping water into different glasses, just to see that waterboy. ..

Oh well, that is it from Mammoth Lakes , California, about 350 miles north of La Conchita.. Merry Christmas too all..

It's freakin' dumping...

I have been enjoying a lot of cold weather lately.. After spending a week in the "freezing ass" Portland area with the beautful Laura Smith, and her equally beautiful and charming daughter, Sophia. Now... I don't really mind the cold, but with out snow?? It's a stretch for us Santa Barbara types. So, I can see certainly what Laura is complaining about. Its cold and not that sunny! There are quite of few Oregonians, or Californians with Oregonian Beards, walking around in shorts, and t-shirts, sort of oblivious, or just stubborn?? But, I pretty much had my winter jacket on anytime I went outside. The cold is fine but, it seems with such cold, you could have a good amount of snow on the ground? Nope, just cold.

Here I go again, I swear it was just going to be a weather report, but here's a couple of more things abount the Oregon trip... Laura's house is very warm and inviting and I don't know why I would ever want to leave... But, we did get out and about. I think we hit all the major areas of Portland plus Fred Meyer's. "Everything from fruit to tires" It is a really cool city... I mean cold. ha. No, I enjoyed it very much and would consider it the best big city I've been too. I guess I liked New Orleans a lot too, the food, restuarants, and epecially the sauces, are the best hands down. I don't like big cities very much to begin with but here's my top five...

5. Denver, A mile high.., a major hub for flights everywhere, close to good skiing. Let's not forget John Elway and the Broncos. My own experience is limited too... Many, many, hours at the new Denver Airport. It's the nicest airport I've been to. I have driven though Denver to get to the Skiing. Breck, A Basin, and a number of others are only about an hour away.. I love how it does really snow, and snow hard in Denver, and that's great for the rental car insurance business.. Let's see, I also stayed overnight once at the Airport Comfort Inn, courtesy of United Airlines, after a long delayed flight out of Jackson Hole. I am sure Denver has many great cultural sites, and wonderful things to do. Overall, I like the idea of Denver, but really only know the airport, and it is really far from the Beach!

4. Calgary, Alberta, Canada, Site of the '88 Olympics. I have driven through Calgary a number of times going to Banff Springs, Lake Louise, Sunshine Village, and the Awesome Canadian Rockies, for a couple early snowboard contests. Banff, due to the moose who walk down main street, and the Banff Springs Hotel/Castle, would be high on my the list of small towns. Calgary is great because during the Hockey Playoff's there is not a single business in town that does not have "GO FLAMES" in the window. It doesn't matter if they have a chance or not they love their team. I was there on my honeymoon and they were facing the LA Kings, I think this is the first year for Gretsky.. The Kings lost, maybe the Flames went on to win the Stanley Cup, I don't remember, but it was cool to be up there with all that energy. So I like Calgary.. I have been to Olympic Park and "The Snoboard Shop" (That might have been the "First" snowboard shop in the world!)

3. New Orleans, French Quarter. Come on... It is basically Disneyland for adults. Cart's serving bloody marys on the street, walk up beer and hurricane vendors every where. VooDoo, Sex Shops, Music, Music, Music.... Food, Emeril, Food, Sauces, Oysters Rockefeller, oh my gosh, the food is sooo fucking good. Lets not forget the beads, women taking thier tops off everywhere, aligator heads, and live gators.. I hope that they can put that city back together. I heard that one bar in the french quarter never even closed through out the whole hurricane situation. So, that is comforting..

2. Honolulu, Please... 72 degrees in the air 72 degrees in the water.. Waikiki, the birthplace of modern surfing and still a really cool place to be. Even with all the tourists. Right when you get off the plane in Honolulu, you can smell Hawaii. hmmmm good. Sure the North Shore and the outer islands are much more peacful, and that's where you will find me. But, I don't really like big towns, remember? Oh yeah, The Outriggers....

1. I already mentioned Portland... I guess the big draw there obviously is Laura and Sophia. I also loved the coast there. Driving endlessly through large meadows and big pines, and icy roads. Till you finally see a sign. Cannon Beach, 4 miles. You think, wow, we're still in the ice and trees... Sign, Cannon Beach, 1 mile. Really??? We are still in the ice and trees.. Finally you drop down to sea leval and the smell of the ocean just hits you.. Aaahhhha... And it actually feels warm.

Hmmmmm. I could live here!

Ok, here's the point! It is freakin dumping here in Mammoth. Started up last night. Mike called for three inches. I said over a foot.. Ha.. It is still coming down hard at 10:00 am and looking kinda harsh out there. Over a foot, here at the condo, and easily double that up on the mountain. I don't mind the cold when its snowing like this.. That's what all my expensive Snowboard Crap is for! The picture on top is from earlier this morning, and I'd say there is another 4" to 6" out there already...

I notice I had a bunch of pictures of Kalie lately.. Here's one of my favorites of Sara. Kalie and Sara take pretty good pictures of themselves too. Check out Pirate SAra... or I decided on Kalie.. Oh well, that's it's from the great northwest.

Me.. Burton Backhill, Near Mt. Baldy 1979

In 1984... I opened what would become the first snowboard shop in Southern California.. “Green Sector…So Cal’s Leading Edge” There were a couple shops around me that sold some boards before us, namely Kennedy Surfboards, and Val Surf. These were surf shops and surf/ski shops. The other ski shops were complete dicks. Based on their early short-sightedness they should have never been allow to sell snowboards. Example: Back in the day, there were no snowboard boots. We would get old Sorel’s, (mostly an after ski boot) take the felt liner’s out, and put in a old ski boot liner. This worked out great, and really it is the same basic concept used in today’s boots. So in an effort to get some real snowboard boots, put together for my store.. Went to every ski shop in town.. Including Val Surf.. Well.. all the hardcore skiers just laughed us right out of their stores and to the goodwill.. lol.

Anyway… I bought my first snowboard from Kennedy Surfboards, who was like my mentor in opening my shop, and how I wanted it to feel, yes shops have feelings. He also shaped a number of boards for me when I was a kid. He was stoked.. Charlie and I bought the snowboards, and Kennedy put some our early snowboard pics up on the wall, which was a pretty big deal, for a 16 year old… Glen Kennedy, I just had a surf with him a few months ago in Ventura 28 years after I first stepped into his store. Kennedy Surfboards, still one on the only shops that sell ,and shape their own boards exclusively. The only other one I can think of off hand is Rincon Designs, shapes and designs by Matt Moore, right here in my home town of Carpinteria, California. Though, there are still are a few of the Old School shops out there.


Sorry… that’s a little off track.. But this is back before any ski areas allowed snowboards.. When I open the store in ‘84 there were exactly 4 Ski Areas in California to snowboard. But before that, here’s how it happened. This was probably ’80 or so.. Ski Sunrise in Wrightwood, California.. We didn’t even know if we could go, but it’s one of those ski areas where you start at the top, and ride down to the lifts. There was a lot of fresh snow that day for Southern California… We had old boards with out steel edges, just fins. So we just charged it, there was a perfect, kind of gully, kind of pipe, kind of snake run, to the right… And in that moment I just had the best run of my life. Well, we had great runs in the backcountry around Mt Pinos, that featured, road drops and lots of hiking, but, we were about to just hop on a lift and do it again, again, and again… So, we get to the bottom, hmmmm, walked over to the lift, and asked if we could ride up. They said, “I don’t see why not???” Well, that was the start of the snowboard revolution, for me. With lifts, everyone would want to do it.. Hiking for your turns is great ,and rewarding , and the purest form of the sport/lifestyle but, not for everyone.

So… 1984, The boards still look like surfboards, but finally have steel edges. You can snowboard at Ski Sunrise and Mountain High in So Cal.. In the Tahoe Area, you had Donner Ski Ranch and Boreal/Soda Spring… That’s it. Perfect time to open a snowboard shop.. Really! Our early customers came from all over California most of those went on to make something of themselves in the industry.. Things obliviously got going from there, and the snowboard industry pretty much went huge in the ‘early nineties. For my store the peak years were the mid nineties, we could do no wrong. It had to happen though. ..With this much money being made the Big Guys had to get in on it. Big Five, Sport Chalets, Garts, you name it, even freakin Costco. Plus don't forget about all the ski shops that laughed us out of their store in the early ‘80’s. They like $nowboarding now, too.

Do I seem bitter??? Well I was... I felt my store losing it’s soul, spent more time surfing, and hanging out with the kids, and hating the snowboard industry. I will say however, that all the cat-skiing trips that K2 took me on, and the Heli-Skiing in the North Cascades of Washington, courtesy of Lib Tech, were the highlights of my snowboarding carrer. You can’t beat unlimited powder , with just your friends around. I sold Green Sector, in 2000, down shifted, semi-retired, and now love snowboarding more than ever.. I really like retail and selling cool stuff to people, people, who love to just get out there and enjoy life.. So I just started up the eBay thing… It’s really cool. Get to meet a lot of interesting people via email, all over the world, and I come back from surfing and, hey stuff has sold. How cool is that???

RinconRaxWorks...

New and Used , Quality Sports Racks to carry all your toys, plus Surf, Skate, and Snow Toys for your roof racks, some vintage skate and snow stuff when available, and some other random goods. Visit my store if you have a chance. It is my goal to maintain the highest standards, great customer service, quality products, and hopefully some soul. If that’s possible on eBay…

Chuck Barfoot , one of the true pioneers of snowboard design… Well, he’s just south of here, in La Conchita.. And for all the latest in snowboard gear check out my friends at Seattle Snowboard Connection... If your looking for a good party, greensector.com

Attn:

This is a repost of my eBay "me" page and, I might just decide it's a little to personal, or maybe even too bitter for eBay, so here it is for the permanent record. It's actually quite short and I am holding a lot back. I could probably write for the next year about the rise and fall of Green Sector. Well you probably haven't heard the last of it..

RinconRaxWorks

Green Sector 2005

Seattle Snowboard Connection

The end of an era.. Green Sector 1984 to 2003 rip..

Huli..

Took the oc-1 out again today. This is only my third time out.. It is only significant in that it was my first beach launch, and I finally managed to huli. Now, Jessica, had me thinking I was going to huli all over the place trying to learn this. But up till today my balance has been pretty good. When I am paying attention, that is..

Right off the bat, I did a half a huli, trying to get out from the beach. I got wet but the canoe didn't flip. Much to the amusement of people on the beach... Normally... if you see someone setting up, elaborate carbon fiber equipment, on the beach, you would assume that they know what they are doing. Not necessarily. Ha Ha. So I tried again, waited, timed it, and was out no problem. I went from Oil Piers, RIP, out around Arco island, almost all the way to Rincon and back. About five miles I estimate. Took a little dip at my turn around point then headed on back. I really worked up a sweat and the water felt great.

Well, going southbound, you really can't see the rollers coming in from just slightly behind you. So when I let my mind drift to the northwest (a subliminal hello or the swell direction?) in came a little roller, it just caught me off balance, "huli". I just took a dip so I was already wet, so no big deal. Plus, I had just bought my super sexy wetsuit shorts and a new neoprene rash guard, so I didn't get that cold... Another roller almost got but me right after that, but I managed to catch myself. I quickly adjusted my style and had no trouble the rest of the trip. Rounding Arco Island on the way back, I was in perfect position to ride the swell in, straight to the launch site. So I caught a my first few open ocean swells .. That was fun... Getting out of the water went fairly well, but you just can't surf it in like a kayak right on to the sand. Well... Really, I don't have a clue what the proper technique is, so I just jumped out and tried to keep the canoe straight until I could get it on my shoulder and out of there. It was kind of tricky even in very small surf...

It feels really good to be out there, and I would definitely agree that it is my church. Like any fanatical church goer, I try to get out there every day. Be it surfing, paddling, or just a jog or walk on the sand. Their is some medicinal value in salt air according to some European doctors, but what do they know, right?? ha

Wow??? It's is amazing how bloging really gets away from you. I just wanted to say, "I flipped the damn canoe over!" If you look at the pics, you can clearly see the clouds coming out of Oxnard just in time for the girls water polo game.. Final Score: Malibu 7 The Nardcore 5.. Kalie did score in the JV game which they also lost...

Opening Day...

The the girl's waterpolo season opens today. It is pretty cool that Kalie who didn't even want to play this year, made the varsity squad. She's a fast swimmer.. If you don't know waterpolo, it is a great full contact sport. It's like legalized drowning. You have to be in ridiculously good shape because, you can't touch the bottom, or the the sides, you can't float on the ball, and everyone is trying to drown you, while you swim endlessly back and forth accros the pool. It's fun to watch, and it makes me wish I had played when I was a kid. Ok, I would still like to play right now.

Now, that the season is upon us... Get out your warm jackets, gloves and beanies because it's gonna be cold. The freezing rains, bitter cold evenings, and fog, are soon to follow. Girls winter water polo, playing under the lights, so cold, you can see your breath. Makes you wonder if it really could snow down here...

Ok.. so everyone put their hands together for the Oxnard Yellowjackets, or the LadyJackets as they like to be called. I call them the hottest looking girls in school. Opps.. I guess that's inappropiate.. Well, if I could have found their team picture, you would have to agree.

Random notes from the long weekend...

Hey!!! I'm up to 7 friends on "my space" now. donjaynemusic lol. That would be eight, but i got rid of Tom. Really, I thought I was going to my grave with Kalie and Laura as my only friends. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Check out Croog.. a super cool guy from Chelshire in the UK who liked my "fishing" song and turned me on to Bob Cheevers. Ok.. so now i sound like... Dylan, Jimmy Buffet, Neil Young, and Bob Cheevers. Check out Croog's (Craig) guitar work and some intense poetry on "War in Yugusolvia" anyway... 15 plays today. Wow! Still can't get Sara to be my friend though.. Waaaaah. I think I need to take some guitar lessons.

Big surf weekend??? You tell me? Well.. some really good surf today at Little Rincon, which as you know, is Just South of La Conchita... There is a ton of sand everywhere, and at low tide it was definitly getting hollow. Really hollow. Like bounce off the bottom shallow.. Breaking in about 2 feet of water there was plenty of good surfing going on... Just not by me. I managed a few good ones and then magically, almost everyone got out of the water. Mike and I had it with just a couple other guys. That was when took off on my best wave of the day, not a big one, but really hollow, got a great little barrel, pretty long, time standing still kind of thing, and then just got pounded, tweaking my knee. I thought I couldn't even walk in at first.. Sat on the beach for a bit, and almost went back out, then thought the better of it. Getting old is getting old.. Wasn't even that big of a wave, but it was really hollow, and shallow...


Bought the new Jack Johnson dvd, and a new Jackson Brown cd, saw a lot of people sitting in traffic, wrote two new songs, cooked, cleaned, brushed my teeth, did not get out on the OC-1, saw a lot of stuff that the kids want for christmas, booked my ticket to Portland, about a thousand miles north of here, lalalallala lallaura, great thanksgiving dinner with Mike and the kids at the Harbor Restaurant, enjoyed a beautiful clear sunset tonight and it is now 11:29 and 53 degrees in Carp, wait it was 48 degrees at 10:02



Bob Cheevers... check it out!

Optimistic Love Song...

well
maybe we don't know each other.. but
right now there is no other
who captures.. my heart like you do

and even though you're far away
i know that we shall meet someday
someday... i hope it's true

la la la la alli lalala lia lalla ...
what should i do??

talkin' to you on the phone
i'm in my bed.. i'm all alone
wishin.. we shared a bed of our own..

maybe it's a dream you see, or
maybe it was meant to be, or
maybe... we will never know..

lal lal la lil la la la la llalla
... laura... what should i do

maybe it's just fantasy, or
maybe it was meant to be, or
maybe... we will never know..

even though your far away
well i know that we shall meet someday
someday... i hope it's soon
someday... i hope it's soon...


sophia...

can't your mom come out and play
i swear that i will not take her away
even when the skys are just a little bit grey
the sunshine in your eyes.. it blows me away

sophia..

optimisticlovesong

More Floaty Toys..

Channel Islands - "Retro Single Fin 6'5" This is Kalie's quite expensive christmas present that didn't work out. She is pretty much still in love with the Vaquero.. It is a really nice looking board, but without much personality. I guess nobody really has taken the time to get to know her.. Hey, it is in brand new shape and for sale... CI Retro Single Fin If it were bigger I would probably keep it... Channel Islands Retro Single Fin designed by the World Famous Al Merrick and Rob Machado..

Wilderness - "Fun Dog 6'9" This is the only board that I still ride, that is pretty much a conventional thuster design. (read... most common design in the water) Not counting longboards. This is what the pro's ride, and everyone who wants to surf like the pros ride. Of course, this one is a bit different. It's the fun dog... a big guy thruster @ 6'9". I am big, but, I am not fat... Someone comment that please! I could easily ride something smaller and thinner, but why, this one turns pretty well for me, and goes where I want it too. I just like something that floats a litle bit. Well.. I like this board well enough to keep it.. But, have thought about picking up a simalar Matt Moore, because he's local - Carp.. Having so many boards makes it hard to know what to bring. That said, you can bring pretty much anything you want to Rincon and have a great time. I take this one out in good surf only, chest, head high, to overhead++ and some beach breaks when I want to surf like everyone else. It duck dives so much easier than anything else I have, and that is nice.

The first time I took it out was to the Channel Islands, Marmetta Reef. There was some good overhead surf. As soon as we pulled up, via the Boston Whaler with the Custom Built Radon Cabin.. This is the aforemention big floaty and is owned by Charlie Kellogg, Mike Jayne, and Tim Fritch, who all complain about her equally..

I started waxing up my brand new board, and getting ready to put the leash on. I even brought two leashes. Bad news! I forgot to bring any leash strings. I had some of these back in the Westy about 26 mile east of Marmetta reef, across the Santa Barbara Channel. This is a key item, a small diameter, 1/8" -1/4", nylon rope allowing you to secure the hi-tech polyurethane leash to the board. FUCK! I was desperately looking around for a substitute.. The best I could come up with was a string from my floppy hat. That didn't look to promising because this hat has been in the sun and salt for a few years already. But I'm going surfing. So I tie it on, jump in and hope for the best. For the sake of story I'm going to mention sharks...

There are some great white sharks out here. I've never seen one. I only wonder if they have seen me? A lot of fishermen in boats have seen them, some divers have seen them, and the some of the sharks have seen some of the divers, and ate them.. So, the paddle from the boat over to the actual surf break is always interesting... To the best of my knowedge, no surfers have been eaten at this particular reef. But, it is comforting to know, that there are still places you can go where man does not dictate what is and what should be.

The "McGyver" leash string broke on the first wave and my brand new board washed quickly in towards the urchin encrusted rocky shoreline. Swimming at fast as I could, and stepping on as many spiny sea urchins as possible, I made the recovery. Normally, at a lower tide, there would be some nasty rocks sticking up that could have worked the board over pretty well. Thankfully, it was high tide and it went over all those rocks and landed on the cobblestone beach. Just a couple of minor dings, no worries. The waves were good, so I just went surfing with out a leash the rest of the session and the next day. You just have to know how to swim, be selective in you wave choice, and remember that you don't have your leash on.

The FunDog is a designed by George Greenough and shaped by Bob Duncan.. The Wilderness Shop is tucked in between the southbound 101 onramp at Milpas and the Freeway. It might be closed right now??? Tom Curren use to live right next store. There is a ton of history there that I know nothing about. But, George Greenough, brought us todays most commonly used fin design, by studying dolphin fins. Then went on to show us the future of short boarding at Rincon and assorted Austrailian Points. Bob still shapes, and Greenough rides rubber surf mats somewhere in Austrailia. I haven't had the pleasure of meeting either one of them. But, I do want a Rubber Surf Mat, I bet you saw that coming..

Wilderness "Seventies Single Fin 7'0" I just pick this up at a garage sale for $40.00 a few months ago.. I like the older Santa Barbara brands, even though, I am space and storage, challenged. This oldie is water tight and I had it out in some small surf over summer. But, I guess I really need to see how it goes at the 'con. That is what it was made for... Then I could tell you a story. Otherwise, she is keeping all the stories to herself. So, it's a rideable wallhanger, basically. I have a few of those... This is a Bob Duncan Design as well...

wilderness surfboards

It's really the sea lions you have to watch out for now - kalie

Two looks..






are better than one...

Floaty Toys...

Above, Big Expensive Floaty! Kalie, and Uncle Mike, on the rarely floated Boston Whaler 22' off Santa Cruz '03

Whoever dies with the most floaty wins! More on that later... I am a little tired tonight so check out: "the big table" a cool left wing blog, funny but true, by my friend John Logic.. John came into my first store, in I don't know '89? bought a Gnu Vertigo, green one i thinks. Maybe one for Lisa too... John was a DJ for KROQ and KMPC aka KMET?? in LA before settleing in Seattle.. (actually worked with jim ladd) Whooyaa, maybe that was paraquat kelly? Make sure to check the piece on the California Secession from the union. John now owns 2.5 Snowboard Connections in the Seattle area. He also makes by far the funniest radio spots ever done for snowboarding. More tomorrow..

This one floats on snow.. 1979 Sims Snowboard, #2, number two!!! designed and bulit by Chuck Barfoot located just south of here... in La Conchita





This one is a dead soldier, and now put to rest.. Sold it on craigslist this summer. It is the board that, for better or worse got me back into surfing after a pretty long break. Bought at the Action Sports Show in San Diego many, many, moons ago?? Over ten years??? Longboards are fun, and there is nothing wrong with that. Last owned by my brother, then borrowed by Andrea, broke the nose on a semi-big day at Mondo's.. Sold it to a cool women in San Roque who gave it to her brother-in-law for a wall hanger. "Hobie 9' shaped by Chris Slick" RIP '05"

Barfoot Custom Boards

La Mesa Grande