Wednesday, January 31, 2007

SWEET SUNRISE...



Along long, long, time ago, on a small organic farm, far, faraway, in Eastern Washington.. There was a little girl. She called herself... Sunrise Over the years, many roads were taken, many paths were crossed, a wrong turn here, a wrong turn there, then a butterfly flapped it's wings, halfway across the world, and... we almost met. Almost... she surfed the Cove, and I at Indicator. I new she drove a brown Westy' much like mine, and she new I drove a red one. What she didn't know was, there was an upper parking lot at Rincon. So on we went, close, but I never even saw her van.

Till one Wednesday, December 21st, 2005. Typical of most Wedensdays that fall on the Winter Solstice... The waves were huge! Of course we missed each other again that day. She going south to Rincon to watch the some nuts, skilled professionals, and local kamakazes, take off on the triple overhead lines marching around the little corner by the sea. La Rincon del Mar.. Waking up early to see just how big it was going to be, I went out to the bluffs here in Carp, and watched a wave feather and break way outside Venaco's Pier. No boats coming in or out out of there today, and no way I am getting in the water anywhere near here. So I took off to the north, to find something. Something maybe, in the double overhead range. They say the difference between an overhead wave, and a double overhead wave, is like the difference between pleasure, and business. Not being much of a business man these days, I can't even imagine the difference between double overhead and triple overhead...

When the ocean gets this big, things change... Houses wash away, land is rearranged, and large boulders are moved around like rubber ducks in the bath tub. If you paddle on out there for awhile, you will change too. At the very least, you are going to come in with a very clear head. To the point... "She's surfs, and drives a WestFalia? I would have to be an idiot to not go out with her" So it was on, December 27th, 2005... Giving up on a meeting at Rincon, as the surf continued to pound, we choose the slightly more protected waters of Campus Point in Goleta, well.. on the UCSB campus. I got there a little early, definitely nervous, but hey it was just a meet for a surf, no worries mate' A brown Westy' finally pulls up.. This cute woman with blue eyes, long beautiful hair, an awesome body, and two dogs jumps out of the only Brown Westy' I could see in either direction. And I thought to myself... "She loves dogs, drives a WestFalia, and Surfs.. I am definitely going to marry this woman"



Sunset.. December 27, 2005 The end of a great day,
and the start of something even greater...

Thursday, January 11, 2007

A LETTER TO SURFLINE!

WTF... What's with all the new reports?? el cap, the shores, come on... Give us a fucking break. You don't even check these sites out in person anyway so, why are they listed? It's fucking misleading and a travesty. Is this to impress the sheep with your full coastal coverage? Or.. just to make things even more crowded, so you can make even more money selling expensive trips to uncrowded locations around the world. Which btw are becoming even more crowded as well. Fuck you, you money grubbing corporate sheep herders...

don

just north of la conchita...

ps..

I have nothing against your forecasts. Forecasts, swell direction, technical info is great. So are a lot of the other things on your site. Surf news, Local Knowledge, bring it on, Photo's... Just get rid of all the cams, and individual spot reporting, and have some class. There are enough cell phones to get the word out..

Click here to send your own letter...

FreeSurfReport