Tuesday.. Lots of surf this week but funky winds and currents at home so I have been heading up the coast at least three out of the last five days. The rare bird was looking in great form on Wednesday. It also looked a little bit too crowded even though I was dieing to surf there. Keep it on the down low?? How about everyone leave your cell phones at home instead. So.. I drove up a bit further and scored a different kind of bird. Pretty fun and near perfection in terms of surface conditions. 3 people out and they were really spread out. Super fun but not what I drove up for.
Wednesday saw the swell drop but the funky winds continue around home base. Still just enough fun to keep me out there for a couple hours. I thought about heading north again but with the drop in the swell just didn't seem worth it.
Thursday, March 17th. The swell is back up and I make plan to head north without even thinking.. This time crowd was looking good as I arrived. For about an hour it was pretty easy to get waves and I had a quite few nice little cover ups but no ridiculously deep shallow sand sucking barrels that were coming up, as the tide was going down. The place just turned on as the tide started to drop and I saw plenty of reasons to call this the best spot on the coast (If you like really fast hollow long makable barrels) Unfortunately it quickly turned into one of the most crowded days I've seen. Not a single wave, big or small, went unridden.. The Slide Show is about a hour later after I got out. The tide and bottomed out and it seemed a bit smaller. Still a lot of great surfing going on. Check out Brandon Smith switch foot barrel, that was pretty cool. But if you could have seen what my eyes saw during the dropping tide.. Perfection.. Sick.. Music: Rodeo Clowns... GLove, with Jack Johnson..
Friday the swell was down again, but I was hooked so I headed back up the coast again. This time to no crowds but that damn south wind followed me up there. Damn south wind, damn you all to hell. Still wasn't too bad with a 1/2 dozen people in the water. And when the wind switched onshore it even cleaned up a bit had it to ourselves till the Low Tide Crew Arrived.
Saturday.. Back at home and going over the falls at overhead Rincon. I was so used to just bouncing off the bottom and popping right up I forgot what it was like to get dragged under water for 50 yds.. Well it's raining today.. Horrible southeast winds and weather. Still you know that it is probably working somewhere..
