SUBJECT: SURF FORECAST(Tue) NW BARING DOWN ON COAST...

It is big again today and, it's suppose to even bigger tomorrow. It's still not as big as Big Wednesday, but then tomorrow will be Wednesday again, so who knows?? Here are some pics of Pitas Point in Ventura County. That is Chris Malloy in the photo getting set to paddle out. Of course, as usual the pictures don't do it justice as far as the size or power.. Plus, Chris is a world famous pro surfer who surfs waves way, way, bigger than this anyway...

However... it was refreshing to see him just get completely worked over, paddling out there.. The difference is when he gets worked, he comes up, and paddles even harder, kind of like the energizer bunny, he just keeps going, and going, and going, until he's outside. When I get worked, I think, fuck, do I really even want to get out there? I then drift swiftly with the current south until maybe there is a lull in the action, and I make it. That is exactly what happened to the guy paddling out right before Chris. Jumped off the rocks, made a good solid effort, to get out, and quickly disappeared with the current, out of sight to the south.

Well, Chris seemed to make it out pretty easily, and did not get swept quickly to the south but, he was paddling his ass off!!! Paddling your ass off sounds like a great idea, and is often the only option available but, the problem with paddling your ass off is... You run out of breath. Now, I quit smoking, One year, three months, three days, 20 hours, 27 minutes and 48 seconds. I have avoided smoking 15175 cigarettes, and have saved $3,756.18, have no idea where the money is, and still run out of breath...

Some of you may know exactly what I mean but, if you don't, picture this.. Imagine someone is chasing you... Now run as fast as you possibly can, keep running, now swallow some salt water, ok, keep running, faster.. are you out of breath yet?? good, keep running... OK, here's the wave.. now try to push yourself, and that piece of high price flotation equipment, underneath a fifteen foot tall wall of churning, spinning, explosive, frothing, water and foam...

Did you make it? Of course not. You were blown completely off your board, thus losing your only connection with, which way is up, relaxx.. Wait a bit, and it will release you as you crawl through air, foam, and water, to the surface. Did your leash break? No.. Too bad, otherwise you could have proudly swam in towards the rocks and get the hell out of there. It didn't break so.. quick get on your board and... START PADDLING YOUR ASS OFF!!!



So, there were only two guys out at Pitas when I was there. Not counting the two guys who were swept quickly to the south, out of site. Lot's of cool looking surfer dudes were checking it out, and then sheepishly driving away. Pussies!! It is too bad I did not have my board in the van, or I would have paddled out there for sure.

Instead, I ended up at Miramar Beach today, a place known for it's small longboardingish style waves. It was freaking pretty big there! Sorry Mike... I called my brother and told him it looked just.. OK. So he shined it. But as soon as I got out there, I was catching the best waves I've had since, hmmm, last week. It doesn't break with the power of Pitas, but it did have plenty of good sized, overhead sets rolling through, a friendly crowd, and the by far the best waves I have ever surfed there...