I am not a news reporter but this is happening right in front of my house so I felt I had to comment on it. I was heading back from town. Carp that is.. After spending the night at my house, where my complicated, yet beautiful wife now resides. Yes.. It's complicated.. So after a rainy walk on the bluffs with Riley I am heading home.. La Conchita that is.. Just as I round the corner at Rincon I can see the Amtrak Surfliner is stopped dead on the tracks. Right in front of my house. It's still here. Probably be here all day.
Ok.. They only stop these things when something bad happens. So my thoughts immediately focus on my daughter who was out last night as well. Kalie is an awesome driver, but I am her dad, and this is dangerous stretch of highway.. not Freeway! So I get an ill feeling anytime I even see the traffic slow down. I will never stop worrying about her. Cars are freaking dangerous. Especially in the rain.
Anyway I get closer and finally I can see a white suv facing south, pretty well crumpled up, and stuck to the southbound Pacific Surfliner 768. First train of the day I think. There are several CHP on the scene, and some fire, but no ambulance. This all must have just happened as there was hardly any traffic backed up, and I made the turn into La Conchita with no problem. I pulled in the driveway, grabbed my camera and went down to take some shots. Feeling kind of guilty, or unsettled, or something, since I despise bad news, and the news in general, but like I said this is right in front of my house. Passengers are looking right at me in my fish bowl windows while I type this one out.
Well there are a few neighbors gathered around and the best information I have is this. The guy lost control of his vehicle, flipped and rolled, then flew off the highway and landed backwards on the train track. I don't know how long he sat there, not long is my guess, but he was promptly hit by the train. The train came to a stop basically right in front of my house, and according to witnesses, the driver got out of the vehicle walked north about 4 train cars and died right in front of my house. On the tracks in front of my house. Gnarly.. Send yours prayers and blessings to his family.. and drive carefully!
Ok.. The train just pulled away and some new information came of it. Judging by the debris on the track, it looks like the vehicle was hit about 20 yards north of my house and was pushed about not more than 150-200 yards. I don't know how fast a train going 60 miles an hour can stop? I don't think that fast. It must have seen the vehicle and made an attempt to slow down. Just a guess. That means the driver may have gotten out before he was hit by the train. All just speculation on my part..
The greatest thing about this winter has been the "in-between swell days" I surfed Indicator on this particular morning. Only a handful of guys out a 9:00 am. Plenty of chest and head high waves with more than a few sets going over "my" head. The crowd filled in a bit but, never even got to a what I would call a "stage 1 alert" By the way.. One of you guys might have got a nice water shot of me on my last wave. Light Blue.. Andrieni Hull.. Kind of balding.. but only if you shoot me from the shore. Well if you are out there? Please post. In any case it's great how one good session can change your outlook on life. At least for a while.
I was in such a good mood I decided to go down and shoot some afternoon glass. This was my first chance to try out my new Slik Pro Pdo 381CF "The CF stands for "carbon fiber" and when ever I can afford "carbon fiber" I buy it - $99.99 @ Samys Camera" I found myself a nice rock just a bit south of the Rivermouth, at a section I think Bobby Martinez once called the slingshot. I call it the section where you need to be going really, really fast, if you have any plans to go all the way to the Call Box.
Well I wish I knew everyone's names but I don't. Sorry. Local Shaper Wayne Rich was in the cove. Tom Curren's kids were out and ripping again. I had a some really good shots of his youngest kid?? see I don't even know his name. Unfortunately that stupid $1200 lens focused in on some rocks for the whole wave. A lot of other rippers out.. names.. sorry. Even the girl from Esau's whose name I do know, I have blanked on. So if you recognize yourself, or anyone else let me know. I will write it down this time. Thanks!
The MonoPod review. Very light weight. No problem there. It felt kind of awkward at first but I think some of my shots did come out a bit crisper. I still had to fix the horizon on nearly every shot, but there was an definite improvement in that area. I was shooting kind of low to the ground, so I did end up with a number of out of focus shots. Didn't have that kind of problem when I was a hand held wannabe. But I did get some really crisp pictures of rocks.. Overall I enjoyed it and will use it again. Two Thumbs up! Wait! It almost fell over.. I guess one thumb up then.. Maybe I could think about a tripod someday...
Woke up at 3:00 am today. Not good. I can't really sleep anymore. If I make it to 5:00 it's a miracle. I am frozen in fear, time, indecision, something.. I really can't fathom having to start over again.. and maybe we don't have to. But maybe I should. Jeez.. this is some bad writing. It has been a bad week I guess. Business is bad. This separation seems bad. My decision making is bad. I am getting a bad headache just sitting here.. or is it the just wine. Oh yeah the drinking.. Bad.
I am trying to recall the week but, it just seems bad. It's true, there was some surf. 4 sessions to be exact. (I know what you are thinking.. I should get out more.. But that's the average) Unfortunately.. Most of the joy has been yanked out of that. It is true that while in the act of riding a wave, I can still manage a peaceful zen like state. Or depending on the size and shape of the wave, and taking into account my positioning, and or probability of making the wave, I may even achieve the state of, Oh shit! Why did I take off on this! Even missing the first wave of the set, turning around, only to see the 4 more bigger waves bearing down on your position is better than all the crap I have going on in my head today. But as soon as you kick out, or pop back up to the surface, your reality smacks you right in the head.
Not a care in the world for this guy..
I might point out that these acts of blissful unawareness are short. 5, 10, 15, 2, seconds? Even a 200 yard ride from Indicator lefts past the Rivermouth might only be 25 seconds at best? I don't even know. Luckily time slows down out there. You can almost make it stop in the barrel. Still. Whats a good session? 20, 30, waves.. That's probably high but, I have been catching a lot of waves. 10 waves an hour would seem like a pretty good return on your investment. Lets say at Rincon where most of the waves are pretty long you net an average of 10, 12 second rides. That's one hundred and twenty seconds of actual "zen like peace" 2 minutes of bliss for an hour. Maybe some dolphins show up and catch a few, or it's big and consistent and you are constantly dodging the bigger sets. I will add another 10 minutes of distraction for that. Almost 15 minutes of blissful ignorance. They were right. It is a complete waste of time. They say that about golf and fishing too. But still a surf that was only 50% satisfying, will still be 50% more satisfying than doing nothing.. I guess.
This might not be bliss, but it is certainly a distraction.
I certainly don't know where I am going with this but, yes, I am in a depressive cycle. Brought on from one or more new difficult situations I am currently mishandling or over reacting to.. Don't worry. I have many years of experience at this depression stuff, and have found some ways to cope. Now.. I am going to get serious here in case anyone who actually reads this finds themselves spiraling down.. Like me.
1)Go outside and take a walk. Luckily I have my dog Riley. So there is no way he is giving up his morning walk no matter how sorry I feel for myself. If you don't have a dog, go adopt one.. maybe.
2)Keep doing the things you enjoy even though joy seems to have been sucked out of them. There's that bumper sticker "A bad day of surfing beats a good day of work" It's kind of like that. It can be hard to sit out there on a slow day and think about your ills but, in the end you will glad you did. I noticed they have those bumper stickers for golf, and fishing too. So I guess, if you don't surf, golf, or fish... well... hmm.. God be with you..
3)I came up with this one. "Be nice to strangers" You know despite the fact we live in a world where most of us hardly know the neighbors. I have found most people to be pretty cool. This method worked great during what I guess you could our 6 month trial separation.(April-October) I will definitely be using it again now that we have entered our official separation. Having a dog works great for this too. Ceta, Feta, Missy, all had great owners to talk too. The old couple sharing coffee at Bates every morning. Supermarket Checkout People. I guess it make me feel I am not alone.
4) Write a song. Write 2 songs. Write 10. Make them so sad. Sing then so loud that it makes you cry. Ok.. That probably won't help but.. How do you think all these songs get written?
A view to die for..
Those are a few things that help me out, but still today, the my universe is off balance. The moral of the story is this. Out of the 4 surf sessions this week.. Monday really sucked, the waves were good. Still going overhead but, because I was hungover from Valentines Day and couldn't even stay in the water, I felt like throwing up. That Monday ended up being a complete "my life is falling apart day" Glad it is over. There was a nice uncrowded "in between swells" day at Indicator which was fun but, I still had a lot of distractions going on in my head. Saturday.. Decent size swell at the pier. No hangover but just not really feeling it. I did get caught inside many time so that's something. A cleansing if you will..
Yesterday (yes rainy and super windy) I had a craving to catch El Cap again. The buoys looked semi promising but, the drive up was looking pretty grim. Cove.. not too big, Sharks.. not even anyone out. Hey, ya know what! It turned out to be pretty good with some head high waves rolling through, and probably the least crowded I have surfed the place. Being the magical place that it is, all my troubles were erased for the entire session. But they're back.. Point being.. who knows? Maybe if I hadn't surfed those other days I wouldn't have gone yesterday. Maybe there is no point.. Sorry.
I doubt anyone noticed but, I had to change my relationship status from "married" to "it's complicated" this week. After not quite 4 months down here in La Conchita, Jenny, and Julia, moved out. Really after a just couple weeks down here they were already trying to figure how to get back to SB and the Valerio house. Problem is they gave up that house to her sister in law and the guest house is still being rented to UCSB Student, Rose.. Ironically they moved into the trailer. See previous post: FOR SALE - BY OWNER - RINCON SURF PARADISE 2 + 1 $119,000
Now I need to point out. While I have always had a love affair with La Conchita and once tried to talk with no success, Theresa, my first wife, and mother of my children, into a buying a house here. up on Vista del Rincon. (back row but.. that house is still here) That was right before the first big slide. I should say the first big slide reported on by the current mass media. Another deadly slide took place about a quarter mile north of here in 1909 killing 6 people. According to Shamin? Shaman? Shamin is a 35 year resident of La Conchita and has this to add to the 1909 slide. Another 75 Chinese railroad workers not mentioned were also killed in this slide. After losing his house in the 2005 Slide he set up camp on the beach right across the freeway from the 1909 slide. Nice place. Had a stage and everything. Unlike the 2005 slide the bodies were never removed and their spirits are heard from frequently down that way... I haven't quite figured out if Shamin, is actually Shaman, but talking to him sometimes I get the feeling he is "The Shaman" Either way he's a super nice guy and one of the many people who have made me feel quite at home here in the LC. Anyway.. The place has been sliding throughout time. They say these are the fastest growing coastal mountains in the World, United States, California, well I forget.
Back to the point I was trying make in that last paragraph. That is.. It was Jenny who became obsessed with moving to La Conchita over the summer. I have no idea what possessed her but she would not leave the idea alone. To the point we were looking at buying houses here in the late summer (I have to point out we were not even living together at the time) Always the voice of reason I tried to point out the obvious.
1. Some people think it's crazy to live in an area prone to mudslides. I say it's crazy to even get up in the morning. Cars accidents, Black Mold, H1N1, Fires, Floods, Snowstorms, I'll take my chances here. At least on the front row.
2. It's like an island here. The old gas station/store has been closed since the owner committed suicide a few years back, so you can't even go grab beer, ice cream, or a Rincon burger. You need to go to the town.. just north of here if you follow my blog. If you don't drive you are pretty much stuck. Not the greatest set up for my 14 year step daughter Julia. But you can ride your bike to town on the freeway, or walk to the cliffhouse for a delicious lunch. Note: Someone looks to be reopening the Gas Station so.. that will be sweet!
3. Drugs.. Fuck that. There are drugs everywhere. There is the fact that we are on an island, and if you don't surf, like taking long walks on uncrowded beaches, fish, and collect Rincon Creek bricks. There is not much to do. Drugs could be an option. Of course a lot of kids seem bored these days no matter where they live. I guess there was a big pot bust here last week.. But pot come on.
4.1 The Freeway: This is the big one! It poses all sorts of problems here. First and foremost is the left turns against oncoming traffic. Vehicles small, large, and huge, are hurtling themselves at 75 mph on one of the busiest freeways in the world. I saw my first accident about a week ago. No local residents were involved but a truck apparently did some fancy air maneuvers eventually landing on its side. I heard no one was seriously hurt. This would be a good time to point out that THIS IS NOT A TECHNICALLY A FREEWAY. Yes kids.. About a 1/2 mile before Mussel Shoals to the south. And just as you pass Rincon from the north. You are not on the freeway anymore. There is busy cross traffic at two intersections, bikes, pedestrians, and cars parked along the road.
4.2 On any given Saturday or Sunday during the summer with everyone, I mean everyone heading to Santa Barbara, you would have an easier time walking across the top of cars than actually making the left turn. All that said. it's a matter of timing. Learning to time the speed of oncoming cars and what's makeable, learning the best time to leave, not caring about the time you will lose by going continuing south to the Sea Cliff off ramp and turning around. Or heading north to the u-turn or Bates Rd if you need to go south. If you have been drinking.. take the long way home!!!
4.3 Then there's getting to the beach. That's easy you just have to be flexible. The tunnel is only about 4' tall..
4.4 Oh yeah. It's loud and runs nonstop.. Till about 2am. Of course.. I can see Rincon from bed and it's about 2 minutes away on this same freeway..
So.. This wasn't really working out for Jenny... or Julia.. and now they are gone. To be fair. It's not just La Conchita, we just can't seem to live together. Too much fighting. Too much fighting over the exact same thing over, and over, and over again. Money (she makes twice as much as me, nearly 3 times. We use to have a joint account. Now everything is separate. And I am paying for half of everything. Cool.. now we can fight over who ate whose last avocado, grapefruit, turkey, whatever. That is dysfunctional and just plain lame. They sell freakin' Avocados 10 for a dollar just down the street. That's not counting the locals discount. ha.. My grapefruits’ on the other hand were like a buck each! That's something to complain about. lol..
We haven't been on a nice trip together since last May and then she takes off to go see friends in Hawaii with Julia. No big deal. I don't have that kind of money. That's why I try to live someplace where I can vacation year round from the comfort of my own home. This place is like a paradise we could enjoy ourselves right here. Christ I can see the place we were married from my bedroom balcony. But still.. We really need to try and get away, sorry trips to Mammoth don't count! My love language is sharing quality time. And to be honest my love tank is bone dry. Shot full of holes and leaking. I know her's is too.. But I gues I don't know how to fill it. If it's not money, it's the kids, or the fact that I choose not to work as much. It is hard to have a step family period. There is so much more but.. I think we still love each other. well.. hmm.. I don't know.. It's complicated..
"they say you got to choose your side.. and when it's done. nobody right.. nobody wrong"
I am not a news reporter but this is happening right in front of my house so I felt I had to comment on it. I was heading back from town. Carp that is.. After spending the night at my house, where my complicated, yet beautiful wife now resides. Yes.. It's complicated.. So after a rainy walk on the bluffs with Riley I am heading home.. La Conchita that is.. Just as I round the corner at Rincon I can see the Amtrak Surfliner is stopped dead on the tracks. Right in front of my house. It's still here. Probably be here all day.
Anyway I get closer and finally I can see a white suv facing south, pretty well crumpled up, and stuck to the southbound Pacific Surfliner 768. First train of the day I think. There are several CHP on the scene, and some fire, but no ambulance. This all must have just happened as there was hardly any traffic backed up, and I made the turn into La Conchita with no problem. I pulled in the driveway, grabbed my camera and went down to take some shots. Feeling kind of guilty, or unsettled, or something, since I despise bad news, and the news in general, but like I said this is right in front of my house. Passengers are looking right at me in my fish bowl windows while I type this one out.
Ok.. The train just pulled away and some new information came of it. Judging by the debris on the track, it looks like the vehicle was hit about 20 yards north of my house and was pushed about not more than 150-200 yards. I don't know how fast a train going 60 miles an hour can stop? I don't think that fast. It must have seen the vehicle and made an attempt to slow down. Just a guess. That means the driver may have gotten out before he was hit by the train. All just speculation on my part..
