SLOW-MOTION...

Being in love doesn't seem to do anything for my writing skills?? This is an ominously blank page! I really can't think of a single thing to say. Even there... I was just about to have something, and it was swept away by thoughts of my beautiful Jenny... Wait, should I say, "My", of course, I am not holding back... completly reckless.. Hopeless really.. I was really into this blogging thing too. Useless information use to just flow from my head without thinking.. I turned off the autoplay of the rainmaker podcast, but, if you would like some music, scroll down to "silly love songs" and hit play! After a silly love song from me, there's some great music from Michael Franti and Spearhead, Ben Harper, and, Part One from Jack Johnson Live from the Dodge Theater in Phoenix, AZ... Nevermind I turned autoplay back on.. Too quiet. Here's one for Jenny, followed by Ben Harper, Steal My Kisses, and G-Love.. Don't steal music, it's only 99 cents at iTunes or make a donation to Kokua or Kaili Falk... Oh.. It's ok to steal my song. Hahahe...

Well the surf has still been great. Nothing like Big Wednesday, or some of the other days.. But, lots, and lots, of good days. It's always head-high or better it seems. The water along with the air temperature has gotten cold.. But, the surf keeps coming in.. There hasn't been much rain, so the water has been fairly clean too. Although I think, like Buzzy was saying yesterday, only half jokingly, most of us have built immunities to all the crap that comes down the creeks and rivers, and we are all probably developing webbed hands and scales. That would be great, but I am really hoping to breath underwater soon!

I have had pretty much, all the "best waves of my life" this winter.. And a few occasions where, slow-motion, was in full effect. It's a longstanding fact that time slows down in the tube.. As it turns out, I have not had that many great tube rides, because the slow-motion effect has not really turned on with the intensity of my one ride at El Capitan. This particular best wave ever occured the day after Big Wednesday, Pretty Big Thursday. Pretty Big Thursday, was still pretty big... too big at Rincon, and most spots south of La Conchita. At least for me, and most mortals. But just right, everywhere from Carpinteria, on up to my favorite spot in the whole wide world, El Capitan. There is something really good about that place.. Except for the crowd.. Ugg.. El Cap is Gnarly. It breaks fast and close to the rocks. Which aren't really rocks, they are huge boulders. But, they are rounded off into perfectly shaped large boulders... When it is big enough, the boulders are not really a factor. On the smaller days though.. they are right there, you couldn't straighten out if you wanted to.

Maybe, it is the fact that I use to camp here when I was a kid, way before I knew anything about surfing, and pretty much nothing about the beach at all. We would always camp at El Capitan Ranch, which back then, was just dirt camping. None of the deluxe tents and cabins that are offered today. But it was great... there was a big pond for fishing, camp stores, jiffy pop, smores, we even spent an Easter there looking for eggs and baskets. Camping and going to Mammoth are pretty much my fondest memories growing up. The beach is a ways from El Capitan Ranch, so bike are a must! On one noteworthy year I had my sidehack:

side·car

1. A one-wheeled car for a single passenger, attached to the side of a motorcycle.
2. A cocktail combining brandy, an orange-flavored liqueur, and lemon juice.

I wasn't aware of the drink, but that could slow things down a bit too.. Anyway... The sidecar in question was a BMX (Bicycle Moto-Cross) sidehack designed and built by my friend, Tony Torelli. My parents and his still hang out all the time but, I haven't seen Tony since a wedding many years ago. Ok.. I think I have found my rhythm of rambling thoughts now... The bicycle and motocross version of the sidecar is called a sidehack.. Instead of a nice comfy seat and windshield in an enclosed cocoon.. You have basically, a open platform, and handles which allow you to shift your weight around to avoid flipping the dam thing over!

The person in charge of shifting the weight around to avoid flipping the dam thing over, is called the "monkey". The sidehack is a great source for slow-motion wipeouts and accidents. So, even if you have never had the slow-motion tube riding effect you can really get the same effect, perhaps without the pleasure element, unless pain and pleasure work as one for you , with a good high speed, over the handlebars, wipeout.

Car accidents, though not recommended, offer another option for the slowing down of time.. If you prefer cars, the safer bet is an accidental slide on a safe piece of icy road, with no oncoming traffic. I had a good one of these coming out of Mammoth when I was about 18. One car coming in the opposite direction right at me, began to fishtail towards me and my little Subaru, "el tiberon". Knowing better... I panicked and hit the brakes.. and started my own inspired slide into oncoming traffic. Things were moving slow. Really slow... Swish, swash, swhoosh, I don't know... what sound do cars make when fishtailing back and forth across the road, heading right towards each other on ice? Actually, I think it seemed to be deathly quiet. Silence, I think is one of the common components to the Slow-Motion phenomena. Well, we finally met and he swooshed, and I swished at the right time and missed each other by inches, probably feet, but while waves, and fish grow bigger over time... Danger and near death experiences get more perilous, I guess. We were so happy to miss each other, we careened into snow banks on or own side of the roads. Having my trust 4WD Suby I backed right out, and headed on home. Since then, I am the most cautious driver in the snow and ice ever, so don't get behind me... I did incur one more 360 degree slide coming down from the main lodge on a day with out much snow on the road. Just enough for a clean, perfect, 360 slide, around a shady corner of the road. That one pretty felt good.

Ok... So the sidehack... My monkey was, Kenny Mueller. He was pretty good but there is no avoiding a wipeout on these things, go around a corner just a little too fast, the sidehack wheel starts lifting, and poof, you are floating, dreamily, through the air.. Hitting the ground always ends the slow-motion effect, but not until you have come to a complete stop. I think that our minds slow these incidents down so we can relive them time, and time again! It's great!

So back to El Cap, My wave... Like I said it was crowded, as always. It barely ever breaks. So if it's on, I suspect that there are a lot of people who have had their best waves at El Cap and, just don't want to miss it. I am sitting just inside the first pack of surfers at Picnic tables. Catching a few good ones now and again. Just patiently waiting for people to fall, or get the waves that swing wide. All of the sudden the wind drops off a little, and the conditions improve to really, really good, within minutes. Right away, a few guys are getting some sick barrels off picnic tables and flying past me presumably getting shacked again at the second barrel section before speeding into the third and final barrel to the inside...

Anyway here comes my wave. It's one of the swinging wide sets that miss the picnic table section completly, and sets up just before the second barrel. It's coming right at me and there is no one in position but me, and everyone salivating to the inside of me. El Cap breaks steep and fast, but I pulled right into this one, it's overhead, and ahead of me is the second barrel section.. Well the wave actually jacks up bigger and begins to throw out, clic- clak... clik- clak, I am just standing there. There really is no place to go at El Cap. If you straighten out, you are practically right into the rocks.. and getting pounded between the rocks and the rest of the set, which regardless of size, breaks hard! So, I just stay put, hardly even tuck, and it just throws out right over me.. I could see people paddling up the face ahead of me, my brother, I could see everything so clearly... clic- clak... clik- clak.. and I'm out, now flying at full speed into the inside section, there was no barrel there, but just full El Cap speed, a few hoots, and the best ride of my life over in about 20 secs..

Disclaimer: This is a report of the actual event. The size is approximate but not exaggerated. I hope in thirty years it will jump up to a size comparable with Chuck Barfoot's "best wave ever" session there with Tom Sims in the 70's. God it was huge. I can't even imagine how big the rest of the coast was that day! Chuck's story is great and I would love to retell it, but, it involves a series of sound effects, and hand jesters, that I can't convey over the blog. There was a rumor of some super eight film footage from that day, but it never turned up, so much like everybodys best wave, it is pretty much tucked away in the slow motion memory bank of our minds, to be relived time, and time again.. I included a few pic's from a much smaller day back a couple of weeks ago...

This is the same day Michelle Housego lost her life surfing poles at Campus Point.. I didn't know her, but, people who did, have written some very beautiful things about her, so check it out, and perhaps make a donation to her daughter.. I don't know.. This is not a blog for bad news, but she seemed like a really good person whose memory will continue to touch people forever.. So that's not bad at all!!!

Memories of Michelle

Expensive Camping...

SILLY LOVE SONGS...

You think the world would have had enough of silly love songs... I look around me, and I see it isn't so - Paul McCartney

Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon - The Dalai Lama

This seems like really good advice.. So keeping with the Dalai Lama's sage advice, I have used this reckless abandon approach, and accidently fallen completely in love with this absolutly perfect woman. Who's going to argue with Paul McCartney?? So, Jenny, who btw, is quite reckless in the kitchen, this Reckless Love Song is for you.. Now, I am not going to sit here and say my singing or playing is all that great but, I loved writing this song, and it feels really good to sing... and that's what counts! Who really knows what I'm thinking, but there only so many words that rhyme with life.

However... Love Kamakaze and Keepin' it Natural by Michael Franti are really great songs.. So stay tuned..

Regular bloggers... I will try to get back to my usual rambling blogging as soon as possible.

LOVE KAMIKAZE...

Michael Franti... The lost sex singles album..

JUST TAKE A MOMENT...

I just happened to visit La Conchita today checking on a rental for a friend.. I realized that it is the one year anniversary of the Slide.. I was surfing Rincon a few days after the slide, and it had just really begun to clear up down here. There was a beautiful rainbow that came out and just came straight down in the middle of La Conchita. It was pretty magnificent... and some sort sign from above.. a good sign!

I hope everyone takes that the right way,

don


Music By Ben Harper... In the Lords arms

You could steal the download at my podcast station.. Buy it at iTunes, or make a Donation to La Conchita.. Or just do what feels right to you..

iTunes

La Conchita

SUBJECT: SURF FORECAST(Tue) NW BARING DOWN ON COAST...

It is big again today and, it's suppose to even bigger tomorrow. It's still not as big as Big Wednesday, but then tomorrow will be Wednesday again, so who knows?? Here are some pics of Pitas Point in Ventura County. That is Chris Malloy in the photo getting set to paddle out. Of course, as usual the pictures don't do it justice as far as the size or power.. Plus, Chris is a world famous pro surfer who surfs waves way, way, bigger than this anyway...

However... it was refreshing to see him just get completely worked over, paddling out there.. The difference is when he gets worked, he comes up, and paddles even harder, kind of like the energizer bunny, he just keeps going, and going, and going, until he's outside. When I get worked, I think, fuck, do I really even want to get out there? I then drift swiftly with the current south until maybe there is a lull in the action, and I make it. That is exactly what happened to the guy paddling out right before Chris. Jumped off the rocks, made a good solid effort, to get out, and quickly disappeared with the current, out of sight to the south.

Well, Chris seemed to make it out pretty easily, and did not get swept quickly to the south but, he was paddling his ass off!!! Paddling your ass off sounds like a great idea, and is often the only option available but, the problem with paddling your ass off is... You run out of breath. Now, I quit smoking, One year, three months, three days, 20 hours, 27 minutes and 48 seconds. I have avoided smoking 15175 cigarettes, and have saved $3,756.18, have no idea where the money is, and still run out of breath...

Some of you may know exactly what I mean but, if you don't, picture this.. Imagine someone is chasing you... Now run as fast as you possibly can, keep running, now swallow some salt water, ok, keep running, faster.. are you out of breath yet?? good, keep running... OK, here's the wave.. now try to push yourself, and that piece of high price flotation equipment, underneath a fifteen foot tall wall of churning, spinning, explosive, frothing, water and foam...

Did you make it? Of course not. You were blown completely off your board, thus losing your only connection with, which way is up, relaxx.. Wait a bit, and it will release you as you crawl through air, foam, and water, to the surface. Did your leash break? No.. Too bad, otherwise you could have proudly swam in towards the rocks and get the hell out of there. It didn't break so.. quick get on your board and... START PADDLING YOUR ASS OFF!!!



So, there were only two guys out at Pitas when I was there. Not counting the two guys who were swept quickly to the south, out of site. Lot's of cool looking surfer dudes were checking it out, and then sheepishly driving away. Pussies!! It is too bad I did not have my board in the van, or I would have paddled out there for sure.

Instead, I ended up at Miramar Beach today, a place known for it's small longboardingish style waves. It was freaking pretty big there! Sorry Mike... I called my brother and told him it looked just.. OK. So he shined it. But as soon as I got out there, I was catching the best waves I've had since, hmmm, last week. It doesn't break with the power of Pitas, but it did have plenty of good sized, overhead sets rolling through, a friendly crowd, and the by far the best waves I have ever surfed there...

WELCOME TO OXNARD...

Surf Quiz
Are you A short boarder or long boarder?	Any board will do...
Are you Goofy or Regular?	Regular
Which way do you prefer to surf, left or right?	Right hand points..
What has been your perfect surf day so far?	December 22, 2005 El Capitan
Do you surf alone or use the buddy system?	Your always alone anyway...
What kind of board do you have?	16 to choose from..
Surf Station or Blue Sky?	What?? Blue Sky..
Where do you usually surf?	Rincon Del Mar
Whats more scary, sharks or dolphins?	White Sharks
Whats the main question you ask in the line-up?	How's it going?
What kind of wax do you use?	SexWax
Would you rather be in double overhead water goin on 10ft waves or thigh high water on 1 ft waves?	Any wave will do...
Do you like winter or summer surfing better?	Winter
Do you rock your wetty?	Yes
Do you like wearing your wetty?	Yes
Do you wear a swim suit or baggies with it?	No
Have you ever not worn a swim suit or baggies with your wetty?	What???
Who is one sufer you would like to meet and get lessons from?	Greenough
Where would you rather go, Hawaii or California?	Hawaii but,I like it right here just fine..
Have you ever seen a shark in the line-up?	Not a big one
Have you ever started your own line-up?	Yes
Do you dream about surfing?	Sometimes
What would be your dream board?	I would like another 7'0 Vaquero please
Have you ever competed?	No
Do you like competing or free surf better?	Free
Where would you most like to surf when you get older?	I am old
Do you want to go pro?	Golf? I guess I should start playing
How much do you surf ever week?	3-6 days
What would be your PERFECT day of surfing be like?	Overhead El Capitan with just a few friends...
CREATE YOUR OWN! - or - GET PAID TO TAKE SURVEYS!

HAPPY NEW YEARS...

Tashi Delek! Good Fortunes and Happiness,

When I was up in Portland, I had the chance to meet a Tibetan by the name of Jampa Nyendak Lathsang.. I have kind of been following the Dali Lama and generally find his views and a lot of eastern views, refreshing compared to that of western "red" states way of thinking. Anyway.. Kalie has recently become involved with Students for a Free Tibet, so when Laura told me of a Tibetan Gift Shop, I knew I had to go. I did find some great gifts for Kalie, and I came home with a really nice knit beanie from Nepal and these New Years Prayer Flags...

Well.. I had a nice New Years Eve and dinner with the Tebo family. Greg, Julie, and the kids, Samantha, Dustin, and Annie, and Greg's Dad, and Mom. These are my old neighbors in Oxnard Shores, and even though my kids still live aboout ten minutes from them, they rarely get together. But, for some reason we always seem to make it on New Years and the Fourth of July??? It was great to see everyone. But, I cut out about 10:00 to beat the drunks and the cops, went home and probably fell asleep around 11:00. So... I guess I woke up this New Years Day, feeling a little lonely, and sad. Yes, I still have my cat, Clyde, but he really doesn't like to be touched on the paws, ouch! Then I remembered the prayer flags...

Not really knowing what the proper rituals are, I just figured I would go ahead and wing it.. So I put on my Tibetan Incantations CD, another cool gift from JNL Tibetan Gift Shop. I didn't have any incense but, I like the smell burning sage better anyway, and hung up the flags in pretty much to only place they would fit in my humble abode. So, I am going to take about fifteen minutes right now, and mediatate to the rain and music.. You can do the same if you would like...

Ok.. I made a little tea, and I'm back. I hope you had a good meditation! So, anyway the prayer flags hang directy above my couch, and below my favorite surfboard, so that's probably a good thing? Hmmm.. the music has switched to some mellow Hawaiian music but, that's another culture I can relate to just fine, so I think I'll let it play...

The flags are up and flying... now what???



The flags from left to right are in a sequence of Blue for Sky, White for Cloud, Red for Fire, Green for Water, Yellow for Earth. Then, repeating again two more times, with a Special Blank Turquoise Flag on the very end. More on that one later. On each flag the line in Tibetan says, "Wish you a very Happy New Year"

Now the first thing to consider is, this is not the Tibetan New Year! Opps.. Secondly, there are days when you "should not" hang prayer flags. Fortunatly, this is not one of them. Another good thing for do it yourself prayer flag hangers, is the offering ends with the practitioners asking the deities to forgive them for any mistakes in the performance of the ritual, such as improperly or incompletely reciting the words of the text. So that's helpful also when you are winging it...

First New Years Flag, Blue with White Ink
The first flag has "Tagye Bhumsug" It is the 8 Tibetan auspicious symbols in "Bhumpa" The Great Treasure Vase. It stands for prosperity, luck and harmony. At the sides are the "7 Jewels of Royal Power" symbols in circular border, forming a V shape. Below the artwork is short prayer...

"May each day come unveil new reasons to explore many a brighter horizon, and the various joys of life"

Second New Years Flag, White with Black Ink
The second flag has "Doyon Nyenga" The Five Qualities of Enjoyment represent characteristics which, when they come into contact with our senses, give rise to craving.

1. Mirror is a symbol for visual form,
2. Lute for sound,
3. Incense Burner - for smell,
4. Fruit for taste and
5. Silk for touch.

In offering these qualities, one meditates on their nature and the intention of abandoning craving. It symbolizes the fulfillment of all wishes, brings happiness, prosperity and good fortune. At the sides are the 7 jewels of royal power symbols in circular border, forming a V shape. Below the artwork is short prayer and wish...

"May this New Years be of possibilities as endless as the sky... and a chance to meet new challenges in everything you try"

Third New Years Flag, Red with Gold Ink
The flag contains 2 horses facing each other with the flaming jewel in the center. The horses represent transformation of misfortune to good fortune, from baleful portents to auspicious signs and from poverty to prosperity. The "flaming jewel" symbolizes wealth and unfolding power and possibility. Below the art work is a very short prayer and wish, which reads...

"Wishing you a very happy and prosperous New Year (LOSAR) and may your luck and fortune prosper."

Fourth New Years Flag, Green with White Ink
The fourth flag also has... "Tagye Bhumsug" and the 7 Jewels of Royal Power Symbols. It is similar to the 1st Flag but the wishes and prayers are different...

"Hope this New Year brings the brightest moments for you, along with peace, contentment, and the best of everything, to last the whole year through"

Fifth New Year Flag, Yellow with Black Ink
The fifth flag like the second has "Doyon Nyenga" The Five Qualities of Enjoyment represent characteristics which, when they come into contact with our senses, give rise to craving. It is simalar to the second flag with this different prayer and wish...

"Just like the petals of a beautiful flower, may special joys of contentment unfold for you, day after day, not only at New Years, but always"

The Last New Years Flag... Turquoise with Silver Ink
The flag contains the 4 dignities in the four corners. The tiger roams in the forest and symbolizes the "wood" or "air" element (in a sense a dynamic energy that makes a tree grow). The snow lion ranges on the mountains and symbolizes the "earth" element. The garuda (khyung) soars high in the sky with flames emanating from its horns symbolizing the "fire" element. The dragon as per legends lives in the sea and symbolizes the "water" element.

The last flag is a special blank flag to be filled with your own prayers and wishes for the New Year.. Here is mine...

"May we all be blessed with childrens eyes.. to see the beauty, wonder, and amazement, occuring in our everday lives. Free of judgement, and open to all the possibilities of the world"

If you would like to leave your own wishes or prayers in the comments, that would be awesome... Otherwise, everyone have a great new year!!!

don...

If you would like to learn more about the 7 Jewels of Royal Power, or why I didn't have to take my Flags down check out:

History of Tibetan Prayer Flags

PODCAST FOR THE PEACEFUL...



It just gets better. Here's some free live music from Spearhead coming weekly, from the "Love is da Shit", A Spearhead Fansite.. This site seems to be fully suported by Michael Franti and Spearhead, in fact the concert seems to be playing on the Official Spearhead Site. Here ya go... Live from Portland Oregon lol...

Some more new music... For me anyway, I know Kalie doesn't like him..

Jason Mraz Hmmm... Acoustic, funky, reggae, jazzy, hip hop, smooth, flowing, singer, songwriter, from San Diego. I like it. Or maybe... I am gay. lol. Here's a couple of reviews from the iTunes site.

Blew me away. Five Stars. I had no Idea this album was going to be this good - Rosh

Hand in his Pockets. Five Stars. Fantastic album "The Remedy" is the obvious favorite, "Too much food", and "No stopping us" are upbeat, but "Curbside Prophet is my favorite.. Even better on the live album. - M

The Greatest Cd of All time. Five Stars Jason Mraz has a amazing voice and all of his songs make me feel good - Bnditlkebeck

Jason. One Star. I can safely say that any guy who buys this cd is "Not Straight"-Import T

Refreshing new sound. Five Stars. I guess if you were in a pissed off mood, or a homophobe, you might not like it.Even though Jason doesn't seem to by gay? Not that there's anything wrong with that. If I'm feeling pissed off, and homophobic like that, personally I go with Marshall Mathers... This is really just good, flowing, feelgood, music. Curbside Prophet is also my current favorite.. Oh, btw, this is nothing new, It came out in 2002. Personally, I have been living in my basement musically, until I got the iPod - Don

iTunes..

iPod...

I don't know how I went all this time without an iPod but, Santa Claus finally brought me one this year. Now, I don't know what I was thinking??? I mean, put all you songs onto one small little device? Why would you want to do that? Please... Excuse me for being a complete idiot for all this time. This is one of the best inventions ever. It pretty much eliminates the need for bringing your cd's anywhere. It pretty much eliminates the need for cds period. Though, I am sure that cd quality is a bit better than this iPod to fm stereo converter thingy. It does sound good enough and I have way more music. I can put together custom playlists. Shuffle whatever, it is freakin great!

I have even been buying songs off iTunes, 99 cents ea, Ten bucks for an album, so come on why steal? There seems to be a lot of exclusive cuts on iTunes also. I bought a really good acoustic version of U2's "Stuck in the Moment" Plus, I have been checking out a lot of new music, that I never would have heard otherwise. If you just want the one good song off the album, good on ya, that's the only one you need to buy ka-ching, 99 cents. There is a flaw in that line of thinking , because you probably are going to miss some really good songs if you don't buy the whole album... ka-ching $9.90

The enviormental impact seems huge. You don't need cds. No cases, No paper, No discs, No shipping, No gas, for delivery, No Planes... Think how much oil and trees could be saved by getting rid of cds. I can't beleive Apple is not using that advertising angle... We really need to start saving oil for important stuff like, surfboards, snowboards, skateboard wheels, and sunglasses.

If you really look into the future. We shouldn't be using paper for anything except art, and paper airplanes. Everything else bills, school work, whatever, should just be stored digitally. I know this seems crazy coming from me, because I think technology sucks. But hey... maybe these computors are alright. Spreading music and peace, around the globe. Saving oil and trees.. Ok, that's that! Look at this smile, another happy iPod customer...


The surf still continues to roll in... Nothing like Big Wednesday, like they promised, but mostly overhead, everyday, for quite a while. I have surfed 6 out of the last 8 days. There were plenty of waves those days too but, I am getting surfed out. Rincon has been super crowded with all the down southers, everyday. The only day I surfed there was Christmas and it was good!!! Except for this ego shattering event. I got a really nice set wave, well overhead, superfast, very hard to make actually, and my board is just made for that... So I was just flying along, superfast, ok?, carving nice stylish turns off the botton, staying low, carving off the top, it's a good long wave, 200 yds at least... Then I pass these kids and I hear one yell "do something" That fucking little punk! So, like I said, I was going superfast, and I just went for a superfast, hardcarving, roundhouse, cutback, hopeing to throw up a ton of spray, and just fell right off. Anyway... I used to try to rip the wave to pieces, and I even bought a little 6'4" fish this summer for "ripping and tearing" but...these days, as with much of my life, less is more. And as lame as it sounds, I just like to be "one with the wave". Plus, those little punks were sitting on the inside anyway.. just hoping fo a wave small enough to come in.



Here's the Veneco Pier today, for comparisons sake. Today the surf is a couple feet over head at Little rincon, and up at Rincon, there were probably a few DOH sets coming in at Indicator/Rivermouth area. So as you can see, It must have been pretty huge at Rincon last Wednesday... BTW... You can click on any of the pictures for a full size image.

BIG WEDNESDAY

I try not to pay much attention to the online surf reports and forecasts but, when you get email saying it's going to massive it's hard to overlook and I start to get panicky. Ok... Fuck Surfline, reporting on every fucking break than can get their hands on is just plain wrong. This is all you really need to know courtesy of Wetsand:

December 15th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Thu) Weekend surf outlook, and holiday NW on radar

I was heading to Mammoth thinking, oh shit it's going to be big when I get back.

December 16th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Fri) Models upgrade NW for 21st to massive

Now right off the bat, Wetsand doesn't even send emails on Friday so you know something is up. The word massive is very rarely used as well. Significant usually means it's going to be pretty big.

December 18th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Sun) NW now, much bigger westerly swell Wed.

How does it get bigger than massive??

December 20th SUBJECT: Surf Forecast (Tue) Big WNW tomorrow, NW 25th-26th, massive NW on radar for the 27th-28th

Another Massive swell for the 27th and 28th.. Is big, bigger than massive?? Or is massively big, the biggest. I have seen it bigger once on, Jan. 30th 1998. That was massively huge. I saw it pretty darn massive but really clean and organized last year...

Here's Wetsand..

Today (Tuesday) our latest WNW swell has backed off a bit, but there’s still plenty of heavy surf in the waters along the California coast. Tomorrow, surf will get much, much bigger—dangerously so for most areas. Another hefty WNW swell is due in NCal on Christmas, SoCal the day after. Then it looks like we’re in for a very big swell to hit us on the 27th into the 28th.

Much, much, bigger, dangerously bigger... A very big swell hitting on the 27th and 28th. Where does very big fit in here??? Normally I don't cuss this much but, I think it is going to be fucking big. When I finally hit the coast coming back from Mammoth, it was dark, but there was a heavy mist in the air...

Veneco's pier in Carp, Nobodys coming in from the oil platforms today...


Now... when I say I get panicky, I mean not in a good way. More like, great, it's going to be too big. Where am I going to surf? I know I have to get out in the water, or it does some kind of psychological damage. And, I know I don't need any more of that. I pretty much tend to max out at just a little overhead. I have been out in much, much, bigger, that's where I get my fear.. I would say things are a bit better since I quit smoking... One year, two months, three weeks, one day, 11 hours, 54 minutes and 27 seconds. 14800 cigarettes not smoked, saving $3,663.43... So now I feel like I probably won't drown. But, getting caught inside and taking one directly on the head is still a real fear for me. I have just never really become use to it. So I try to surf, mainly paddle, very carefully.. Sure, Hawaii gets bigger and is more powerful, but there are great channels, warm water, and its tend to be a bit more organized. When it gets big here, it's always a bit stormy, and almost impossible to get out.. So.. you are pretty much going to take a lot right on the head, guaranteed just getting out.

I love surfing, I have pretty much built my life around it. But, still there is something a little unnatural about being right in the impact zone, taking a deep breath, duck diving as deep as you can, then just getting absolutely violently blown to smithereens?? Now, you never know if it's going to be a successful duck dive or not. Sometimes it looks pretty grim and you just pop right out the back. Sometimes you pop right out the back, then you get this slow tug backwards and then... sucked right back into the caldron. Then, there are the ones that just blow you right off your board, scare the fuck out of you, as you just rag doll.. at this point, things are completely out of your hands..

For me this is really screwed because, I wear contacts, and I can't open my eyes without losing them. You really can't tell if you are upside down, or right side up, unless you bounce off the bottom. At least when you open your eyes you can usually see light, and swim for that. If I really get blasted, my eyes just pop open in pure panic, relaxxx... That might be the end of my session, but at least I see the light.. Now if you are lucky, you get rag dolled in towards shore, and out of the impact zone. You can pretty much relax and as you get pushed away from most of the danger. Unless... there are big rocks, or a pier, or some other impending doom. Other times it just pushes you straight down, then right back up in the same spot, and you can do it all over again, while your tired and all out of breath….

This is precisely why I moved to Carp. Most winter days, you have Rincon, Little Rincon, Pitas… If it gets a little bigger, Hammonds and Miramar are fun. Those are all pretty close by. But when the word massive turns up. You can just head up to the Gaviota coast… Now.. you can tell just how big it is down in Ventura, and Rincon, by the amount of people fleeing to the Gaivota coast. Judging by the crowds, it was pretty big and massive. El Cap, and spots I don’t even know the names of start to fire.. On Wednesday, I would put these spots in the neighborhood of “big” Mike and I selected one such spot just north of El Cap.. This spot looked like the smallest of the big. You can never really tell how big it is, until you get out there of course, especially when your checking it out from a bluff. If you time your paddle correctly you can find out right away how big it is. That’s what I did.. And just narrowly pushed under a couple of set waves and made it out. “it’s bigger than it looks” says Mike..

Now, I like that the wave height guidelines have been change to knee high, waist high ,chest high, head high, overhead, double overhead , right on up to ridiculously over head. But… now people downsize that too. It’s fairly simple. If it’s twice as big as you are tall, it’s double overhead. When you are lying down on your stomach it is bigger than that. So.. here at the spot, I’m calling it Overhead to Double Overhead with Plus Sets.. On a lot of these big Wednesdays I don’t paddle ou, just go watch the real insane surfers at the biggest spot possible, but this looks doable and it felt really good to get out there. I probably only caught about a dozen waves and, passed on those plus sets, including one that just came perfectly at me.. Missed a really good double overhead one, that I really did want badly, by not paddling hard enough. And caught mostly the overhead to few feet overhead waves. Here are a couple pics of my last wave in on a just slightly overhead one.. Now, Ok.. I catch waves this size all the time, I love this size, even a bit bigger, just not when there are big double overhead plus sets lurking about. Usually you try to pick off one of these small ones, miss it turn around and there's the plus set coming straight at you... You never get the good ones on film. Meanwhile back down at Rincon, people are getting serious. I don’t know how big they were calling it. I stopped on the freeway on my way down to the 'nard later in the day.. It was hard to even see people out there. For those guys, It was probably just over head. To me it was way too far overhead.

The swell dropped a bit yesterday, and I surfed the best El Cap I have had the pleasure of being a part of. Despite the crowd, it was great. I can now see what Shaun Tomson was talking about 25 years ago when he said El Cap was one of the best waves he had ever surf. I was like? What? I use to camp there as a kid... Since then I have been trying to get it good, and not too crowded.. I have only surfed El Cap, about five or six times, all on smaller days, but it gave me a good feel for the place. So when this perfect wave came right to me, I turned and went and got one on the best barrels of my life. One that I would really have love to seen myself. One that even Mike, who never says much anyway, said, nice barrel. One that I really wish I had a picture of. So I could say, see it is not a complete waste on time. haha.. Surfers don’t talk much usually, except to all the pretty women, now in the lineup. So when a couple other guys paddle by and said nice, pretty, sick… I knew I got my Christmas present early.

That pretty much sums it up and I think there is a lot of swell still on the way. AAOOOOOWWOOHOOO..
Mele Kalikimaka from just north of conchita...
And, a Haouli Makahiki Hou...

Mammoth Wrap Up...

The final official tally on the storm was 37" That’s over two feet at the condo, and 3-4 feet up on the hill in my unofficial report… Pretty good way to start the Christmas Vacation , considering it was pretty dry when we arrived on Friday.




It was sooo windy yesterday that they never opened the top, which is just as well, because we can’t seem to get out of here before 11:00am anyway. Today it probably will open, in fact, maybe it is already open, so naturally we are leaving. I did enjoy a few good powdery turns with Mike on Sunday, during the height of blizzard off chair 25, Lincoln Mountain. Lots of deep powder on chair 7 too. Haha. Really!! This is where we spent most of the time teaching Ashley. On day three, I think she was finally feeling it. This is in part due to Sara taking over as head instructor. Sara has had so much instruction from, Mike, Kalie, Andrea, and me over the past four years, she probably is the most qualified. It appears that Sara finally has her own snowboarding act together.. and was really having fun. WOW! Now if everyone can just get to the same level, someday... someday I hope it's soon.. lol Anyway, with the instructing job taken over by Sara… Kalie and I took off to take some runs on chair 16 until the very high winds shut it down. Kalie is pushing it more and more each time, taking a few jumps, with nice style. She was also good enough to stick with her friend Ashley most of the time. I think that they had more fun just checking out the boys in the lodge. Well I'm sure of that!


Finally a new restuarant in the Village... The Sand Dollar, a much needed Quality Sushi bar and Restaurant. While being on the expensive side,it was really good!!! Lots of expensive specialty rolls, sashimi, and couple beers, and $240 later we were out of there. Yummmmmm… My favorite, Albacore Tataki, Super Yum! The girls favorite, The Waterboy. I have never seen three girls drink so much water. They even resorted to dumping water into different glasses, just to see that waterboy. ..

Oh well, that is it from Mammoth Lakes , California, about 350 miles north of La Conchita.. Merry Christmas too all..

It's freakin' dumping...

I have been enjoying a lot of cold weather lately.. After spending a week in the "freezing ass" Portland area with the beautful Laura Smith, and her equally beautiful and charming daughter, Sophia. Now... I don't really mind the cold, but with out snow?? It's a stretch for us Santa Barbara types. So, I can see certainly what Laura is complaining about. Its cold and not that sunny! There are quite of few Oregonians, or Californians with Oregonian Beards, walking around in shorts, and t-shirts, sort of oblivious, or just stubborn?? But, I pretty much had my winter jacket on anytime I went outside. The cold is fine but, it seems with such cold, you could have a good amount of snow on the ground? Nope, just cold.

Here I go again, I swear it was just going to be a weather report, but here's a couple of more things abount the Oregon trip... Laura's house is very warm and inviting and I don't know why I would ever want to leave... But, we did get out and about. I think we hit all the major areas of Portland plus Fred Meyer's. "Everything from fruit to tires" It is a really cool city... I mean cold. ha. No, I enjoyed it very much and would consider it the best big city I've been too. I guess I liked New Orleans a lot too, the food, restuarants, and epecially the sauces, are the best hands down. I don't like big cities very much to begin with but here's my top five...

5. Denver, A mile high.., a major hub for flights everywhere, close to good skiing. Let's not forget John Elway and the Broncos. My own experience is limited too... Many, many, hours at the new Denver Airport. It's the nicest airport I've been to. I have driven though Denver to get to the Skiing. Breck, A Basin, and a number of others are only about an hour away.. I love how it does really snow, and snow hard in Denver, and that's great for the rental car insurance business.. Let's see, I also stayed overnight once at the Airport Comfort Inn, courtesy of United Airlines, after a long delayed flight out of Jackson Hole. I am sure Denver has many great cultural sites, and wonderful things to do. Overall, I like the idea of Denver, but really only know the airport, and it is really far from the Beach!

4. Calgary, Alberta, Canada, Site of the '88 Olympics. I have driven through Calgary a number of times going to Banff Springs, Lake Louise, Sunshine Village, and the Awesome Canadian Rockies, for a couple early snowboard contests. Banff, due to the moose who walk down main street, and the Banff Springs Hotel/Castle, would be high on my the list of small towns. Calgary is great because during the Hockey Playoff's there is not a single business in town that does not have "GO FLAMES" in the window. It doesn't matter if they have a chance or not they love their team. I was there on my honeymoon and they were facing the LA Kings, I think this is the first year for Gretsky.. The Kings lost, maybe the Flames went on to win the Stanley Cup, I don't remember, but it was cool to be up there with all that energy. So I like Calgary.. I have been to Olympic Park and "The Snoboard Shop" (That might have been the "First" snowboard shop in the world!)

3. New Orleans, French Quarter. Come on... It is basically Disneyland for adults. Cart's serving bloody marys on the street, walk up beer and hurricane vendors every where. VooDoo, Sex Shops, Music, Music, Music.... Food, Emeril, Food, Sauces, Oysters Rockefeller, oh my gosh, the food is sooo fucking good. Lets not forget the beads, women taking thier tops off everywhere, aligator heads, and live gators.. I hope that they can put that city back together. I heard that one bar in the french quarter never even closed through out the whole hurricane situation. So, that is comforting..

2. Honolulu, Please... 72 degrees in the air 72 degrees in the water.. Waikiki, the birthplace of modern surfing and still a really cool place to be. Even with all the tourists. Right when you get off the plane in Honolulu, you can smell Hawaii. hmmmm good. Sure the North Shore and the outer islands are much more peacful, and that's where you will find me. But, I don't really like big towns, remember? Oh yeah, The Outriggers....

1. I already mentioned Portland... I guess the big draw there obviously is Laura and Sophia. I also loved the coast there. Driving endlessly through large meadows and big pines, and icy roads. Till you finally see a sign. Cannon Beach, 4 miles. You think, wow, we're still in the ice and trees... Sign, Cannon Beach, 1 mile. Really??? We are still in the ice and trees.. Finally you drop down to sea leval and the smell of the ocean just hits you.. Aaahhhha... And it actually feels warm.

Hmmmmm. I could live here!

Ok, here's the point! It is freakin dumping here in Mammoth. Started up last night. Mike called for three inches. I said over a foot.. Ha.. It is still coming down hard at 10:00 am and looking kinda harsh out there. Over a foot, here at the condo, and easily double that up on the mountain. I don't mind the cold when its snowing like this.. That's what all my expensive Snowboard Crap is for! The picture on top is from earlier this morning, and I'd say there is another 4" to 6" out there already...

I notice I had a bunch of pictures of Kalie lately.. Here's one of my favorites of Sara. Kalie and Sara take pretty good pictures of themselves too. Check out Pirate SAra... or I decided on Kalie.. Oh well, that's it's from the great northwest.

Me.. Burton Backhill, Near Mt. Baldy 1979

In 1984... I opened what would become the first snowboard shop in Southern California.. “Green Sector…So Cal’s Leading Edge” There were a couple shops around me that sold some boards before us, namely Kennedy Surfboards, and Val Surf. These were surf shops and surf/ski shops. The other ski shops were complete dicks. Based on their early short-sightedness they should have never been allow to sell snowboards. Example: Back in the day, there were no snowboard boots. We would get old Sorel’s, (mostly an after ski boot) take the felt liner’s out, and put in a old ski boot liner. This worked out great, and really it is the same basic concept used in today’s boots. So in an effort to get some real snowboard boots, put together for my store.. Went to every ski shop in town.. Including Val Surf.. Well.. all the hardcore skiers just laughed us right out of their stores and to the goodwill.. lol.

Anyway… I bought my first snowboard from Kennedy Surfboards, who was like my mentor in opening my shop, and how I wanted it to feel, yes shops have feelings. He also shaped a number of boards for me when I was a kid. He was stoked.. Charlie and I bought the snowboards, and Kennedy put some our early snowboard pics up on the wall, which was a pretty big deal, for a 16 year old… Glen Kennedy, I just had a surf with him a few months ago in Ventura 28 years after I first stepped into his store. Kennedy Surfboards, still one on the only shops that sell ,and shape their own boards exclusively. The only other one I can think of off hand is Rincon Designs, shapes and designs by Matt Moore, right here in my home town of Carpinteria, California. Though, there are still are a few of the Old School shops out there.


Sorry… that’s a little off track.. But this is back before any ski areas allowed snowboards.. When I open the store in ‘84 there were exactly 4 Ski Areas in California to snowboard. But before that, here’s how it happened. This was probably ’80 or so.. Ski Sunrise in Wrightwood, California.. We didn’t even know if we could go, but it’s one of those ski areas where you start at the top, and ride down to the lifts. There was a lot of fresh snow that day for Southern California… We had old boards with out steel edges, just fins. So we just charged it, there was a perfect, kind of gully, kind of pipe, kind of snake run, to the right… And in that moment I just had the best run of my life. Well, we had great runs in the backcountry around Mt Pinos, that featured, road drops and lots of hiking, but, we were about to just hop on a lift and do it again, again, and again… So, we get to the bottom, hmmmm, walked over to the lift, and asked if we could ride up. They said, “I don’t see why not???” Well, that was the start of the snowboard revolution, for me. With lifts, everyone would want to do it.. Hiking for your turns is great ,and rewarding , and the purest form of the sport/lifestyle but, not for everyone.

So… 1984, The boards still look like surfboards, but finally have steel edges. You can snowboard at Ski Sunrise and Mountain High in So Cal.. In the Tahoe Area, you had Donner Ski Ranch and Boreal/Soda Spring… That’s it. Perfect time to open a snowboard shop.. Really! Our early customers came from all over California most of those went on to make something of themselves in the industry.. Things obliviously got going from there, and the snowboard industry pretty much went huge in the ‘early nineties. For my store the peak years were the mid nineties, we could do no wrong. It had to happen though. ..With this much money being made the Big Guys had to get in on it. Big Five, Sport Chalets, Garts, you name it, even freakin Costco. Plus don't forget about all the ski shops that laughed us out of their store in the early ‘80’s. They like $nowboarding now, too.

Do I seem bitter??? Well I was... I felt my store losing it’s soul, spent more time surfing, and hanging out with the kids, and hating the snowboard industry. I will say however, that all the cat-skiing trips that K2 took me on, and the Heli-Skiing in the North Cascades of Washington, courtesy of Lib Tech, were the highlights of my snowboarding carrer. You can’t beat unlimited powder , with just your friends around. I sold Green Sector, in 2000, down shifted, semi-retired, and now love snowboarding more than ever.. I really like retail and selling cool stuff to people, people, who love to just get out there and enjoy life.. So I just started up the eBay thing… It’s really cool. Get to meet a lot of interesting people via email, all over the world, and I come back from surfing and, hey stuff has sold. How cool is that???

RinconRaxWorks...

New and Used , Quality Sports Racks to carry all your toys, plus Surf, Skate, and Snow Toys for your roof racks, some vintage skate and snow stuff when available, and some other random goods. Visit my store if you have a chance. It is my goal to maintain the highest standards, great customer service, quality products, and hopefully some soul. If that’s possible on eBay…

Chuck Barfoot , one of the true pioneers of snowboard design… Well, he’s just south of here, in La Conchita.. And for all the latest in snowboard gear check out my friends at Seattle Snowboard Connection... If your looking for a good party, greensector.com

Attn:

This is a repost of my eBay "me" page and, I might just decide it's a little to personal, or maybe even too bitter for eBay, so here it is for the permanent record. It's actually quite short and I am holding a lot back. I could probably write for the next year about the rise and fall of Green Sector. Well you probably haven't heard the last of it..

RinconRaxWorks

Green Sector 2005

Seattle Snowboard Connection

The end of an era.. Green Sector 1984 to 2003 rip..

Huli..

Took the oc-1 out again today. This is only my third time out.. It is only significant in that it was my first beach launch, and I finally managed to huli. Now, Jessica, had me thinking I was going to huli all over the place trying to learn this. But up till today my balance has been pretty good. When I am paying attention, that is..

Right off the bat, I did a half a huli, trying to get out from the beach. I got wet but the canoe didn't flip. Much to the amusement of people on the beach... Normally... if you see someone setting up, elaborate carbon fiber equipment, on the beach, you would assume that they know what they are doing. Not necessarily. Ha Ha. So I tried again, waited, timed it, and was out no problem. I went from Oil Piers, RIP, out around Arco island, almost all the way to Rincon and back. About five miles I estimate. Took a little dip at my turn around point then headed on back. I really worked up a sweat and the water felt great.

Well, going southbound, you really can't see the rollers coming in from just slightly behind you. So when I let my mind drift to the northwest (a subliminal hello or the swell direction?) in came a little roller, it just caught me off balance, "huli". I just took a dip so I was already wet, so no big deal. Plus, I had just bought my super sexy wetsuit shorts and a new neoprene rash guard, so I didn't get that cold... Another roller almost got but me right after that, but I managed to catch myself. I quickly adjusted my style and had no trouble the rest of the trip. Rounding Arco Island on the way back, I was in perfect position to ride the swell in, straight to the launch site. So I caught a my first few open ocean swells .. That was fun... Getting out of the water went fairly well, but you just can't surf it in like a kayak right on to the sand. Well... Really, I don't have a clue what the proper technique is, so I just jumped out and tried to keep the canoe straight until I could get it on my shoulder and out of there. It was kind of tricky even in very small surf...

It feels really good to be out there, and I would definitely agree that it is my church. Like any fanatical church goer, I try to get out there every day. Be it surfing, paddling, or just a jog or walk on the sand. Their is some medicinal value in salt air according to some European doctors, but what do they know, right?? ha

Wow??? It's is amazing how bloging really gets away from you. I just wanted to say, "I flipped the damn canoe over!" If you look at the pics, you can clearly see the clouds coming out of Oxnard just in time for the girls water polo game.. Final Score: Malibu 7 The Nardcore 5.. Kalie did score in the JV game which they also lost...